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new octopus tank

I keep thinking about switching my DI to a canister like that as I think it would be easier to refill but no, that is not a portable.

Here is one on eBay. It does not have as many prefilters (these preserve your RO filter by taking out chemicals/particulates before the water hits the RO membrane - the RO membrane being the most delicate and expensive of the filters). The cost is low enough to buy an extra set of filters immediately but all RO's are wayyyyyyy slower than their ratings - portables slower than the mountables - if you don't have very high pressure (and most people don't). If you have an outside hose and an area where it the run off water won't be a problem, that is where I would consider using it (winter could be a problem, mine is in my garage and we added a sink to use it and leave it connected full time but I bring the water in for an hour during the winter before using it).

It might really be better to rethink buying water if you can't use a dedicated water supply but at the cost of this one, a combination might be suitable (homemade RO for water changes and purchased for top off maybe). If you buy, I would suggest distilled over RO because you have no good way to know how often they change the RO filters.

Note that setting one up can be a bit intimidating and this vendor has several complaints about the instructions (or lack of). Also, you will have 3 to 4 times as much waste water as usable water so you MUST have a place for the rejected water to go.
 
Well, I have a utility sink that has Extreeeeemly high pressure (hurts your hands) that we dont use. We also have no problem with using the hose. So I have a designated place. Actualy my parents just said I can mount it on the wall in the utility room. So now my options just expanded. Are there ANY, ro/di filters you would reccomend? What kind do you use? I would take pics, but Im on my ipod. I have a 12x12 room I would guess. On the west wall theres my washing machine and the Utility sink in the corner the north wall my dryer. On the east wall theres a fridge and south theres a freezer. And nearly none of the wall space is taken.
 
Sounds like the ideal place for an RO/DI unit (except when your folks notice how much goes down the sink :cool2: ). I have a no name and I have nothing to compare it with. One thing you might want to consider is a TDS meter to go inline. It measures particles in the water and is a good way to see when you need to replace the filter (the Total Dissolved Solids will rise as the unit ages). You can buy these as a stand alone and dip them into a cup but the inline is way better IMO (and lets you see the TDS in the incoming water as well). Hopefully there is some floor space you can claim for your water containers as well. You will need to make your water change salt water at least 24 hours ahead of a water change and you need to keep about 5 gallons of freshwater made up for top off.

If your Mom or a friend has any kind of decorative waterfall, the water is also ideal for that use because the minerals will be removed and it won't leave the mineral residue on the fountain or in the pump.
 
There is a space for a bucket, and I dont think we will use the water for anything else, but ill offer. The problem I have is my house is 2 stories, and the bottom floor is split level. So first I get the 5 gallons of water, carry it up 5 stairs to the top of my first floor, and then up another 10 steps to get to my room (with octo tank). Well, Ill manage. I have $100 for my ro/di so hopefully Ill only need $80 more or so. I will then get my sand and LR. Well Im hoping I can keep the tank cool enough. Its 84 degrees in my room without AC or celling fan. And my mom always opens my windows and blinds while Im at school, which puts the temp up 5+ degrees. I think Ill be ok. It was 91 degrees today, so that should be the average summer temp.
 
Carrying is easily and inexpensively accomplished. I use 6 gallon (5 useful gallons so they are not filled to the brim) fresh water storage containers (look for potable water containers at a hardware or camping store or in the camping and fishing department of some of the discount stores). They have a handle and spout and can be completely closed. Leave your main bucket in place all the time but get a small pump and hose to use to fill the portable container (fill the portable in the sink so if you overflow there is no mess - I don't use my sink because it is in the garage but I HAVE overflowed the container while not paying attention :oops:).

A alternate or additional container choice is a 2.5 gallon NEW, NEVER USED plastic gas can. We use these to keep our top off water inside the house (so they are always room temperature) and refill them from the garage daily.

A small fan blown over the tank will help cool it if there are air holes in the top. I use them over my sumps (which are open topped) with very good control with the house at 80. Depending upon what else you have in the tank, you can turn the lights off (a major source of heat) during the day and only have them on (use a timer) while you are at home. Octos don't need artificial lighting but corals do.
 

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Well, Im not going to use a light. Im not really interested in corals. They are pretty, but I dont want them in case I get a nocturnal octo. Thanks for the tip about the water tank. I was afraid that I would spill the 5 gallons of water, but with a lid, I feel a bit safer. But its still carrying 40-50 lbs up a bunch of stairs.
 
If you get containers like mine (the FW style are very inexpensive) with nozzle that converts to a cap AND you don't loose and put the air plug in place, your octo should stay out of the frying pan.
 
dwhatley;153330 said:
... A small fan blown over the tank will help cool it if there are air holes in the top. I use them over my sumps (which are open topped) with very good control with the house at 80. Depending upon what else you have in the tank, you can turn the lights off (a major source of heat) during the day and only have them on (use a timer) while you are at home. Octos don't need artificial lighting but corals do.

Just to be clear, fan's don't cool directly, they just move air around. The cooling comes only from evaporation, so the fan needs to move air over the surface of the water to cause more evaporation. Remember that you need to replace the water that evaporates with fresh RO/DI water (not salt water). The fan trick will drop your temp 3-5 degrees (not much) so it's really important to avoid adding heat to the water. Some suggestions:
1) Use fluorescent lights, and have at least a small gap between the light and the top of your tank.
2) Use external pumps (air cooled) instead of submersible ones if possible. And use the lowest wattage pump you can find for the flow (GPH) you need. go for the lowest total wattage, so consider using one large pump instead of sevral small ones, whichever has the lowest total wattage.
 
Good direct point on the reasons fan cool Joe-Ceph. Evaporation will only remove heat, not add cool (hence the holes in the top our use over an open sump). I manage about 4 degrees below ambient (room temperature vs what ever the pumps and lighting add to the tanks) but the open sump helps a lot.

Ryan, you said your mother often opens windows, have you tried leaving the windows open and the overhead fan on 24/7. If the room does not build up heat, you may get better control this way. If you can experiment, open the windows when the room is at its coolest and then check at the hottest part of the day.

I think our profs would agree with my thinking that creatively overcoming regulatory, technical and financial issues is good training for the scientific field ... keep looking for solutions :wink:
 

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