Octopus bimaculoides (Bimac) Pickford and McConnaughey, 1949

DHyslop

Architeuthis
Supporter
Joined
Dec 22, 2004
Messages
1,713
Reaction score
6
I haven't been keeping it very secret that--if the worst has indeed come to pass for Octopets--that I'm interested in obtaining a festoon of eggs.

I would like this thread to become a general discussion of the animal, with particular emphasis on reproduction and aquaculture.

With this in mind I've taken (quite literally actually, but that's another story) some references from the library this afternoon and used them to pass the time until Battlestar Galactica (an episode I was rather pleased with, too). Last year when I moved I threw out a giant stack of Malacologia, which I seriously regret.

I have learned a collosal amount from Forsythe & Hanlon 1998. In the wild, bimacs tend to live in localized, relatively isolated populations. These populations often vary in size: I presume this is why Octopets had said they didn't expect any more Ollies. The study found that bimacs--throughout their lives--seemed pretty tolerant of one another, regardless of study's relatively "overcrowded" conditions. This conflicts with observations from TONMO'ers, however it could be that the study bimacs, hatched in groups of dozens, were better socialized from day one. Also, these octos are kept in containers that simulate their natural environment better than our aquariums do, as I'll mention again below.

The article's description of mating surprised me. The octopus were very promiscuous and showed very little aggression. In many instances, a male octo, happily holed up in its den, would just reach his 3rd arm into a female's adjacent den for a little while, completely sight unseen. Sounds more like Woodstock.

Mean egg size was around 12 mm x 5 mm and they require between 45 and 180 days to develop (a linear relationship with temperature, r^2 = .977!). Hatchlings have very low mortality and will eat mysis and 'pods within 24 hours.

Bimacs were raised in trays measuring ~6 x 2' and 3 x 2' (I am an American citizen and as such I will mix and match metric and standard as I please). Hatchlings were only kept in a couple inches of water, adults not more than 8" or so. Think shallow tidepool and not All-Glass Aquarium!

That's about all I have to say for now. I hope that all of you with experience keeping bimacs or raising octos from eggs chime in. I think we could have a very lively conversation about the best setup in a home for hatching 10-20 eggs rather than 100-200!

Dan
 

cthulhu77

TONMO Supporter
Supporter
Joined
Mar 15, 2003
Messages
6,642
Reaction score
2
Very interesting stuff. I have never kept bimacs, so can only base things on the others, but in reference to the community approach, as long as your tank is big enough, or too small, they will get along fine. Once territory has been established though, look out !
I am sure that with all of the Tonmo people interested in breeding cephs, we will have a steady supply of captive bred animals shortly, probably within a year or two.
Thanks for starting this thread, it should prove to be a great asset to all of those interested in bimacs.

greg
 

DHyslop

Architeuthis
Supporter
Joined
Dec 22, 2004
Messages
1,713
Reaction score
6
cthulhu77 said:
Thanks for starting this thread, it should prove to be a great asset to all of those interested in bimacs.
Thanks for continuing this thread!

In one of Forsythe and Hanlon's cultures they hatched 44 octopuses in a 0.23 m^2 tray. At three months, they were moved to a 0.72 m^2 tray. After they were a year old, the 38 remaining adults were moved to a 2.2 m^2 tray. Those end-member stocking densities came out to 200 octopuses/m^2 to 13.6 octopuses/m^2!

I'm thinking an amateur hatchery could be made from a large deep plastic tray or pan. A 36 x 24" photographic tray would be ideal, but I'm sure I could find something at a big box retailer that would suffice. Perhaps just the bottom cut off a large rubbermaid. 5 or 6 inches deep with only a couple inches of water. A ring of velcro hooks around the rim might deter escape attempts, although F&H reported virtually none.

It wouldn't need much flow and could be hooked into my existing 75 gallon system. A powerhead in my return chamber would supply water through a clear vinyl tube clipped into the tray. Holes cut in the far side of the tray would empty into an overflow and back into the sump.

Dan
 

cuttlegirl

Colossal Squid
Supporter
Joined
Sep 16, 2005
Messages
4,936
Reaction score
254
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
What about a lobster tank (like you see in supermarkets)? They are shallow. I got a used one for $25. It was collecting dust in someone's garage...
 

DHyslop

Architeuthis
Supporter
Joined
Dec 22, 2004
Messages
1,713
Reaction score
6
cuttlegirl said:
What about a lobster tank (like you see in supermarkets)? They are shallow. I got a used one for $25. It was collecting dust in someone's garage...
Most of the ones I've seen at supermarkets seem pretty deep, more like home aquariums. Not being a lobster eater I have probably missed many, though. The price is right, so I'll keep an eye out. I'm going into the city this afternoon, so I'll look at what kind of things might be had at Home Depot.

Dan
 

DHyslop

Architeuthis
Supporter
Joined
Dec 22, 2004
Messages
1,713
Reaction score
6
The one in Pennsylvania looks perfect for a tank-raising/breeding program like this. However it is quite a bit bigger than anything I could seriously consider now! maybe someday when I have a home and a basement...

Dan
 

DHyslop

Architeuthis
Supporter
Joined
Dec 22, 2004
Messages
1,713
Reaction score
6
Bingo

I found exactly what I'm looking for at Home Despot this afternoon.

Under Bed Rolling Plastic Box

Internal dimensions are about 19 x 39 x 5". Plenty of room for a couple dozen subadult bimacs!

My LFS is on the hunt, hopefully I should have a quote for a festoon of eggs from a diver in the next week or two.

Dan
 

DHyslop

Architeuthis
Supporter
Joined
Dec 22, 2004
Messages
1,713
Reaction score
6
Even though most of Octopet's merchant account pages have disappeared, Google allows you to view cached pages: a ghost of the page stored on Google's server as it looked the last time they crawled it.

Octopet Egg Festoon

Octopus eggs are difficult, take a lot of time and care to hatch, and once hatched they require live feed. Octopus will not eat dead food until they are older and they do not survive on brine shrimp. I recommend that only the most serious and experienced marine hobbyist attempt to rear an octopus from the egg.

Now If the warning didn’t scare you off, let me tell you how to hatch and care for octopus eggs.

1. Water quality needs to be high, see Octopus info for water quality guidelines.

2. Attach egg festoon to a piece of Styrofoam with fishing line or rubber band, so eggs stay off the bottom and sides of tank.

3. IMPORTANT! KEEP EGGS CLEAN! Gentle aeration under or near eggs, so eggs move just enough to
rub against each other, this helps to keep the eggs clean. Gently rubbing the eggs between your fingers
everyday will also help keep the eggs clean. In nature, the female octopus spends all her time rubbing
every egg of her brood, between 400-700 eggs. She even stops eating and never leaves her
den. Dirty eggs lose the ability to transfer oxygen through the egg wall and will not hatch.

4. Water temperature effects hatch time; the warmer the faster they hatch.

5. The closer to hatching the smaller the yolk sac gets and you will be able to see the baby octopus through
the egg wall. Be very careful with aeration and rubbing eggs when the yolk sac is less than half the size
of the entire egg. When the yolk is the size of a BB (Copper BB gun ammo) or you get any eggs
hatching prematurely, you should stop handling the eggs, premature hatchlings tend not to survive.

6. LIVE FEED! Have your live feed ready for the day the octopus hatch, amphipods , mysids, copepods and
pretty much anything live and small enough for them to handle. Feed 2-3 pods/day/octopus, keep the
area the octopus live as small as possible and as shallow as possible, this helps them catch food because
the food has less space to escape. Always have live food in the octopus tank, so they won’t eat each
other!

7. OCTOPUS DENS, start with ½ inch pvc pipe pieces, always have more dens than you do octopus, so the
octopus don’t fight over them. As the octopus grow and fill their dens you need to put in larger and
larger pipe sizes. They prefer pipes with a cap on one end and half a cap on the other end.

8. The bigger the octopus gets the bigger the live feed, so this gives you more choices for feed. Small
clams, small crabs, snails, worms anything you think the octopus are big enough to catch, eat and won’t
be eaten themselves
 

Similar threads




Forum statistics

Threads
19,617
Messages
203,163
Members
8,576
Latest member
Westvanchris

Mobile app users
0
Latest mobile user

Monty Awards

TONMOCON IV (2011): Terri
TONMOCON V (2013): Jean
TONMOCON VI (2015): Taollan
TONMOCON VII (2018): ekocak

About the Monty Awards
Mobile app for XenForo 2 by Appify
Top