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ph Level

Faaborg

O. bimaculoides
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Apr 15, 2008
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#1
Do you all test your PH regularly. I think it is suppost to be around 8. Mine is at 6.5. How can I increase it to the correct range, or will it do this in its own as animals are added?
 

L8 2 RISE

Haliphron Atlanticus
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#2
Faaborg;118160 said:
Do you all test your PH regularly. I think it is suppost to be around 8. Mine is at 6.5. How can I increase it to the correct range, or will it do this in its own as animals are added?
it should be 8.0-8.3, 6.5 is WAY low, I would not add animals to a tank with that low pH, test your tanks hardness, get that around 10 dKh by adding SMALL doses (like a pinch per 10 gallons) of baking soda to high flow areas. Once you get that stable, pH should start to rise.
 

Joe-Ceph

Haliphron Atlanticus
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#5
PH is measured on a logarithmic scale, so a PH of 6.5 is about thirty (30) times more acidic than a PH of 8.0. Definately fix the PH before you put any animals in there.
 

Faaborg

O. bimaculoides
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#7
My test strips might be bad (using the ones from my acids bases science lab) I am using instant ocean, and have about 1/4 of my tank live water. I already have pods and one shrimp living fine for about a week and a half. My SG levels are in standard range. How do I test for hardness?
 

AquaForce

Blue Ring
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#8
There are a wide variety of test kits, either liquid or dry reagent, as well as test strips..... (KH = carbonate hardness)
 

Thales

Colossal Squid
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#9
Faaborg;118177 said:
My test strips might be bad (using the ones from my acids bases science lab) I am using instant ocean, and have about 1/4 of my tank live water. I already have pods and one shrimp living fine for about a week and a half. My SG levels are in standard range. How do I test for hardness?
I would say the basic think wrong is the test you are using. :grin: You need to use a test kit designed to work with saltwater because saltwater can do weird things to test kits.
With that stuff living in your tank, I don't think you have much to worry about.
What is standard range for SG and what actually is your level and how are you testing?
I don't think hardness matters much in a ceph tank. Alkalinity levels are important for stony corals.

Also, in general, be careful chasing numbers and adding stuff to chase those numbers. Often, an additive will not actually 'fix' the numbers you are looking for, and will only bounce the numbers up and down.

Invest in some quality test kits, API, Salifert, Elos, and you'll be happier.
 

DWhatley

Cthulhu
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#10
Thales,
My RO/DI water is ALWAYS at about 6.0 without buffering and does not come up much with even the reef salts (which is supposed to be for RO water and produce a higher PH). The neutral reading is expected from RO water. Supposedly, the neutral water will adjust if you add it to water with a different PH (either up or down) but my tank PH drops if I do this without first buffering the new RO.
 

Thales

Colossal Squid
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#11
I remember that D, and I think you are a special case. Before I would put Faaborg there, I would want test done with a quality kit made for saltwater. :D

BTW, how long do you mix your saltwater before testing it.
 

Faaborg

O. bimaculoides
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Apr 15, 2008
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50
#13
I have had my tank up for about a month maybe 2. Before I tested the water. I have a 200 gallon filtration system and I have a 75 gallon aquarium. I have a refugium with plants and a 200 gallon protein skimmer.
 

Thales

Colossal Squid
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#14
Faaborg;118223 said:
The specific gravity in my Deep Six hydrometer reads 1.021. The acceptable range is between 1.020 - 1.023.
Thats low. Natural sea water ist 1.0264 and swing arm hydrometers are notoriously inaccurate. So, 1.021 could be much lower. Either way, 1.021 is low. IMO the acceptable range for inverts is between 1.023 and 1.026, the lower end to compensate for swings due to evaporation.
 

DWhatley

Cthulhu
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#16
I found an interesting article on water and RO DI processing:

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-05/rhf/index.php

With the following quote about the PH of water after RO/DI filteration:

1. The pH of totally pure water is around 7 (with the exact value depending on temperature). As carbon dioxide from the atmosphere enters the water, the pH drops into the 6’s and even into the 5’s, depending on the amount of CO2. At saturation with the level of CO2 in normal (outside) air, the pH would be about 5.66. Indoor air often has even more CO2, and the pH can drop a bit lower, into the 5’s. Consequently, the pH of highly purified water coming from an RO/DI unit is expected to be in the pH 5-7 range.

Since we smoke, the CO2 is likely to be higher in our house but the mixing and areated holding buckets are is in the garage (48 hour min time usually 4-5 days but I mix my buffer immediately to the fresh water and use the prebuffered water to make my salt so I have no recent results but have tried not using a buffer anytime I experiemented with new salt with at least a 48 hour delay). We do have very high acid water (great for azailias, magnolias, gardinias and tomatos) which might partially account for the low PH. I will try to remember to set up a little experiment with tap and unbufferred RO water this weekend.
 

Faaborg

O. bimaculoides
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Apr 15, 2008
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#17
I bought all new kits, PH is 8, no nitrate, no phosphates, water hardness normal
my calcium was low so I added a calcium suppliment
 

Faaborg

O. bimaculoides
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Apr 15, 2008
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#19
My Calcium level was "0" I bought the API saltwater master test kit and added the Kent mineral supplement (with calcium). I thought it might be good to have minerals and cacium in the water because I am adding zooanthids. I also bought the phytoplankton from Kent and added it to my refugium. Here is a pic of my set up. It looks really bad because I should have turned off my flash. I promise the lighting is really great normally. You can see that it is set up in a classroom.
 

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