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Briareus hotel build

Does anyone else have a rodi unit with a bladder tank for their octos I was worried about the metal of the bladder tank bing harmfull or otherwise known as holding tank or pressure tank I wantto buy a 6 atage I gound but im not sure wat to buy
 
When I first set mine up I had a lot of head scratching trying to figure out how the holding tank could only have one line and had to look up how it works :biggrin2: If I understand my set up right, the bladder is like a balloon inside the metal tank that fills with water. The rubber bladder compresses the air in the metal tank when it fills from the RO unit (the line should be before the DI resin chamber). When you open your valve to fill your water bucket (I keep a 20 gallon with float valve full in addition to the small tank) the compressed air in the holding tank will push out the water in the bladder. Once the pressure is less than the water coming from the RO unit, flow reverses and the tank fills. Keep in mind that the bladder is smaller by about half than the physical tank so my 2 gallon only holds about 1 gallon of water in the bladder, the rest of the space is air trapped between the bladder and the metal walls.

A note on RO/DI units. Unless you have a pump, your household pressure will not be enough for the 100+ gallon/day units. It will work but you will only get about around 20/day. The RO filter needs to match your system so check pricing (this is the expensive part that needs replacing). Usually you are better off with a slower rated filter that is less expensive since it will provide as much RO water as the higher rated, more expensive units.

Stages are another thing to think about. Adding as much prefiltration as you can will help preserve the life of your RO filter. Most 6 stage units include an after RO carbon filter for taste that is pretty useless unless you plan to use it for drinking water.

I also like the clear cannisters for the particulate filter stage (no reason to have it clear for the carbon but it hurts nothing if all the cannisters are clear and it allows you to change one to a finer particulate filter if you decide you need it). We have a lot of mud in our water so the clear cannister lets me see when the first stage needs changing (we filter our house water but the mud is still a problem and we would have no water pressure if we used finer house filtration).

The prefilter cannisters are all the same so you can experiment with what you want to put in them. I use a fine particulate filter and two carbon stages before the RO unit. Just today I removed my refillable DI nightmare and connected a new (bought but never installed probably a year ago - added it today after 30 gallons of water on the garage floor because of a leak in the - ugly words - DI component) cannister style DI stage. I also removed the post RO carbon filter that had never been changed and is only for drinking water (and really only for taste). So now my 6 stage is a 5 stage system (1 particulate, 2 carbon, 1 RO and 1 DI). If I wanted to add an additional stage it would be a second particulate before the carbon but nothing after the RO.
 
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There are two features that I would recommend you include in your unit (they can be added if the unit does not come with them). One is a reverse flow flush valve in the waste water line. Occasionally the pressure sensitive valve will "stick" and continue to allow water to flow after it should have shut off. Reversing the flow will help flush the valve and extend the life of the RO filter. As an aside, I would NOT plumb the waste directly into your drain pipe. This is a nice feature but you cannot tell when the valve sticks and will run water indefinitely without knowing it.

The other option is a Teed in line before your RO/DI holding tank if you are going to use a holding bucket/trash can with a float valve (highly recommended - mine is 20 gallons and would love twice that much). When you change out your filters and especially when you change out the DI resin, you will want to run the unit for about 10 gallons (4 hours or so) and discard the water to eliminate any loose resin or carbon. I don't remember if we added this line or it came on the system but it is basically a T on the final line that attaches a waste line with manual valve and then a manual valve added below the T to shut off the water to the float. I can make a diagram of my system if needed.
 
couple of things to add. I keep 5 reef tanks all over 50g and 3 over 100 so I go through a lot of water. BRS sells a second RO unit that hooks to the waist of the first RO membrane which doubles you amount of RO water. I use 2 150g per day RO membranes. Also I run 2 DI units which you might ask why? Well 2 of my systems are SPS only systems and I need 0tds water for them as we should anyway but its more of a back up. The Items D suggested are great and right on point. With the duel DI when I get 1TDS I remover the first DI and throw it away and put the second DI where the first one was and put the new one where the second one was "If that makes any sense" 2 other things I would suggest is A pre pump. Cheap one from ebay "60$" makes a world of difference. Unless you have about 75 psi out of your tap. Next a dual TDS meter inline. One TDS is before the DI and the second is after the DI. This gives you a look at what your RO filters are doing. SO for an example My TDS after about 3 min of running is 4 pre DI. this is a good number and if you have 8+ you are going to burn through your DI very fast. I use a pre pump set at 85PSI"some say my pressure is a bit high but it works great for me" My TDS out of the tap is 285 so I have really bad water. I can make 10g of 0TDS water in about 45min and fill my 90g storage drum over night. Oh ya also a cheap PSI gauge is nice to.
 
Ok sounds simple enough lol im looking at a 100gpd ro/di unit from tfc 5 stage with 5 micron 10" filters with clear housings says 40-80psi operation 65psi best if that says anything lol
 
Ok so txholyrocks insured package and is under investigation now it will take 3 days for any word on its status so 7-14 buisness days if u needed postal translation on that lol but I did buy some zenia green frog spawn and I think some star polyps for tank just for something to look at in the lighted times lol and just to see wat works well with my system I know aptasia grows very well argh so something else may grow pretty good to plus its easier on the eyes aswell
 
Well there sayin it was stolen and wont insure them but I highly dought they were when I had thousands of dollars five feet away on the porch and they wernt stolen but im the little guy so I get the shaft lol ill live tho but ill never buy a packsge that dont require a signature tho
 
Just for grins, check your neighbors. I get mail occasionally that is not mine and if they left the packages somewhere, like at a front door when the home owner uses another entrance (like a garage), it may be sitting unnoticed.
 

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