The order of the octopus.........

Discussion in 'Octopus Care' started by really dumb kid, Oct 15, 2005.

  1. really dumb kid

    really dumb kid O. bimaculoides Registered

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    In what order do you feed the octopus. (bimic) Does it go.....

    Baby= clams
    Older baby= the shrimp and clams
    juvi= small fiddlers and shimp
    adult= thawed shrimp fiddlers and.......

    Please tell me what i missed or correct me thanks.

    :smile:
     
  2. corw314

    corw314 Colossal Squid Staff Member Moderator

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    That's pretty good although I've fed those tiny blue leg hermits to babies along with frozen prawn. I am lucky that I can collect my own food, so there are a variety of different sizes I can progress to. The clams from Octopets seems to be the best first food as they are used to them. Variety is the key and size related food as something too big could injure a baby.
     
  3. really dumb kid

    really dumb kid O. bimaculoides Registered

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    Yes and i understand that so I really dont whant to jump the gun on it so I know what to feed him and at what time if his life. I will also try to give him a good variety of food but that brings me to more questions what do I feed his food seeing as I will be buying larg quantites.
     
  4. Armstrong

    Armstrong Vampyroteuthis Registered

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    If you researched on what to feed octo's in it's different stages of life, you'll know that they of course must be fed a variety of meals to maintain a good level of protein and a healthy life. For your question of buying larger quanities...im assuming you mean, for a the larger growing octo. I would say feed it what they should be fed which consists of small mollusks, frozen shrimp, live crabs if you can find them, clams, mussels, mabye even lobster if it's not harmful and not too large. For the smaller octopus thats about a month old, feed it a variety of foods as well but in smaller quanities and sizes. Baby shrimp and frozen shrimps are great. Clams are fine as well as hermit crabs.

    But please, before you purchase your octo, keep us informed on whats up next and how much you have progressed in research and knowledge. Oh, and remember to mature your tank for at least 3 months before adding an octo in.
     
  5. really dumb kid

    really dumb kid O. bimaculoides Registered

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    yes im aware of all that I'm just making sure I can provide the food as in diffrent things witch I can and I will have the tank in about a month and I will have the supplies in another then I will begin to cycle the tank and when the tank is cycleing do you still do water changes to keep the salt balanced or do you just let it cycle all the way threw and when you put the salt water in do you have all the items in there and im still confused on these critter cages I mean are you talking about those small cages that are like half a gallon and if you are then do you put them in the larger cage and if you do that two how doese the water cycle threw them???????
     
  6. Armstrong

    Armstrong Vampyroteuthis Registered

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    Well...doing water changes while your maturing your tank is something im interested as well.

    As for the critter cages, yeah...there like...those plastic half a gallon or even smaller sized little tanks. These have a lid at the top which have vertical lines (openings) all around it for ventilation. The tank cycles through them even if you put them in a critter cage at its start because of the ventilation going through the critter cage so it's not completely shut out from the rest of the tank. Just keep in mind that once its about a month old or so, it should be big enough to let loose in the main tank and a great thing would be to use the critter cage to keep any live food in such as hermit crabs, crabs and lobsters if any are available.
     
  7. really dumb kid

    really dumb kid O. bimaculoides Registered

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    ok thanks a million good idea to.
     
  8. DHyslop

    DHyslop Architeuthis Supporter

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    If you go the critter-cage route, you usually want to drill a number of small holes in the plastic to augment flow. By small I mean small: I suspect a baby bimac might be able to climb through a 1/8" hole?

    Dan
     
  9. really dumb kid

    really dumb kid O. bimaculoides Registered

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    Ok so would a 1/16 be fine.
     
  10. really dumb kid

    really dumb kid O. bimaculoides Registered

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    Allso about letting the tank cycle do you still do water changes to keep the tank balanced or do you just let it flow.
     
  11. DHyslop

    DHyslop Architeuthis Supporter

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    I suspect 1/16" would be fine, but remember you're going to need a lot of holes to get any flow. You know, 1/8" might even be OK--particularly if Octopets is shipping them a little bigger than mine was--but as soon as I saw how tiny my guy was I was just dreading him slipping out.

    As for the water changes, there is a bit of debate on this. There's a lot of really good articles on reef central about the cycle--you'll learn more from a few minutes skimming what others have said there, questions you didn't even know to ask! :smile: My inclination, however, would be to not change any water during the cycle: my logic is the reason I'm cycling the tank is so that I have an ammonia spike to get those bacteria to grow. If I'm cycling it correctly the spike won't kill every single thing in the tank, so why would I want to lessen the spike and drag the process out?

    Dan
     
  12. really dumb kid

    really dumb kid O. bimaculoides Registered

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    Ya ok and then when the cycle is complete then do you do a larg water change to even the salt out.
     
  13. Armstrong

    Armstrong Vampyroteuthis Registered

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    "my logic is the reason I'm cycling the tank is so that I have an ammonia spike to get those bacteria to grow. If I'm cycling it correctly the spike won't kill every single thing in the tank, so why would I want to lessen the spike and drag the process out?"

    I couldn't really understand this. You want bacteria to grow as a result of an ammonia spike right? By doing this, you don't have to do water changes while maturing your tank. Just out of curiosity, how come you WANT bacteria in your tank? And does having an ammonia spike kill every living thing as in everything? Why would you want that? Just interesting question...mabye I could do it when have a tank to be cycled.
     
  14. DHyslop

    DHyslop Architeuthis Supporter

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    I use the term bacteria colloquially--I don't personally know the taxonomy of the little guys, perhaps I should call them alga or something else entirely. Regardless, they're our little friends making aquariums possible by consuming ammonia and excreting nitrate and those who consume nitrite and excrete nitrate.

    Some people set up their tanks so when they cycle they produce ammonia through the roof. Cloudy water, even. I think one way to do this is to put in a whole bunch of just-off-the-boat uncured live rock. In this case you pretty much have to change the water because there's just too much ammonia. Without having that much experience myself, I believe that it is better to have a tank that can bring itself through the cycle without deus ex machina (deus being myself, or any other aquarium keeper, of course :).

    Dan
     
  15. William Tyson

    William Tyson Vampyroteuthis Registered

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  16. really dumb kid

    really dumb kid O. bimaculoides Registered

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    Ok soundes simple enofgh............
     
  17. tjohnson

    tjohnson Wonderpus Registered

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    In my experience your better off lettign the tank fully cycle before doing any water changes, because you will throw off your balance. Ex: If your ammonia has already spiked, then your nitrites are begaining to take over as your ammonia is being converted, if you do a water change now,you will eliminate alot of the ammonia and nirtites, casueing your bacteria in the next stages to be less able to convert large amounts of waste. IMO Let the tank fully cycle then take care of you nitrates after your cycle is complete and ammonia and nitrites are 0 ppm. And mayeb I didn't understand your part about Salt, but have salt in the water the whole time.
     
  18. really dumb kid

    really dumb kid O. bimaculoides Registered

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    Well let me get this straight i get the tank put in mu stuff like rocks and salt water let it run for 90 days and then fix the water by changing it or using chemicails to get rid of it ?????
     
  19. DHyslop

    DHyslop Architeuthis Supporter

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    Read this thread. Yes, all of it!

    Maturity issues

    Dan
     
  20. really dumb kid

    really dumb kid O. bimaculoides Registered

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    not registered.........................
    its fine.
     

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