Ramie's 1st Octopus

Discussion in 'Cephalopod Journals' started by QueenB, Jan 20, 2011.

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  1. QueenB

    QueenB Vampyroteuthis Supporter

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    Ok it has been officially a year since my last post. I'm still in Love with Octopai, I still want one, and I'm still scared out of my witts.

    I bought a 29g Oceanic Biocube last year, that had a mysterious leak that disappeared after I bought a brand new one the next day. I bought the new tank, and when I took down the other it stopped leaking. I looked everywhere for that leak. Strangest thing. They have both been up and running beside one another for over a year. One on each side of my desk. I've have a few corals, rescued fish from friends tanks that got cracked, and even went for a small piece of a reef for a while. The mated pair of maroons I have in the right tank refuse to let anything else in the tank except Nassarius snails. Even me. They go nuts when I go in there to clean or rearrange anything. I had a beautiful BTA in there with them, and thats all they allowed. Mean little Piranah they are.

    I also bought a 65g Ovlerflow setup, that I had to tear down myself, but I got a decent deal for $350 bucks. The only problem, is all the maintenence that goes with it. I was hoping for something a little easier to take care of.

    It came with the 2 sets of lights on top, tank, wood stand, sump, huge protein skimmer, intake pump, and outtake pump, over $800 worth of LR, 4 inches of sand across the bottom light strips, Koralai power heads, insump heater, cleaner shrimp, Tomato Clown, Dwarf Lionfish, tons of crabs, and a few snails.

    The 65 was covered in salt buildup, that took me forever to clean it all up. I salvaged the lights they were completely covered ins altwater. The top of the tank wasn't covered and the lights from being up there so long without being wiped down. The salt just hardened. I'm taking those to Lowe's to get some Plexi Glass cut for both of them, to prevent that from ever happening again. I also had 2 peiceas of Pexiglas cut for the top of the tank. Theres a brown divider in the center, so that you can put a peice on each side.

    Now this 65 would be a beautiful setup, but a total brat to clean. The tank is tall not but long. I can't touch the bottom of the tank with my hand even if I'm standing on a foot stool. We sanded the stand completely down and stained it, then varnished it. It doesn't look half bad now. But it had crayon and marker all over it from the man's neice/nephew inside and out. That took me about 2 weeks to complete. I painted the back of the tank Black because it just brings out the colors of the corals and fish so much better I think. I hate the powder blue on the backs of tanks that have such nice coral setups. Just draws the eyes from the beauty in my opinion. Also where the tank was supposed to be it was to block out the light coming in the window and coming throught he back of the tank.

    So yea it was definatly worth the $350 paid for it, cleaned up. But since cleaning it, and seeing all the hassle in setting all that up. I have RA , and at some days I can barely get dressed in the mornings. Hence why I need an easy to maintain tank. Not to mention I have no clue how I would even begin to set it up. My son and my husband went with me, and took it apart for me, but taking it apart and putting back together myself is the problem. Son is leaving for the Army in 5 days. Husband doesn't know a thing about how to set one up. Well not of that magnitude anyway.

    I have decided to sell it and look into a Red Sea max 250 for later down the road. My dream is the 500, but unless I hit the powerball. NOT GONNA HAPPEN!

    Red Sea Max 250
    http://www.redseamax.com/redseamax/250Temp/redseamax/index.html

    Now for the reason why I'm thinking the 250. More Room, convenience in the setup being easier to clean, and I don't have to take everything apart later to clean it. My Biocubes are pretty easy to clean which is why I'm looking into how to make them work.

    The filtration system in this thing is a step up from my Biocubes. Beautiful isn't it?http://www.redseamax.com/redseamax/250Temp/redseamax/Red_Sea_MAX_specs250.html


    I only want a pygmy Octopai, a Merc or 2, or something just as small.
    I've been told my 29's would do fine. I have even bought a SR3 protein skimmer, and a canister filter for the left tank which is the newer one. To try and get it as close to being as superior to the 130D as much as possible.

    Red Sea max 130D
    http://www.redseamax.com/redseamax/250Temp/redseamax/Red_Sea_MAX_HP_130D.html


    But then I come across the same problem I'm having now. I NEED TO BABY PROOF THE TANK.

    So I'm going to practice with the 29's and then if all goes well in another year. Mamma's gonna have a brand new bag!

    I started up a few albums, just threw some photos in to get the albums started. They will be much more detailed later down the road.
     
  2. DWhatley

    DWhatley Cthulhu Staff Member Moderator

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    When you asy you are having trouble "baby proofing" do you mean baby proofing (keeping things OUT) or octoproofing (keeping things IN)?
     
  3. QueenB

    QueenB Vampyroteuthis Supporter

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    Baby Proofing

    Definitely keeping things in. I'm trying to make sure he/she doesn't get into the pumps, skimmer, or anything in the back side of the filtration. Just trying to be extremely thorough. I would like to make one of the Biocubes work.

    If you don't mind me asking what is your normal maintenance that you do to your tanks weekly biweekly etc...? Don't hold back as much detail as possible Please!

    What additives & food you recommend from the day they arrive, to them growing up and getting bigger? Like crab species & sizes, is unpeeled Jumbo Shrimp OK, for the adults, and what to give a baby Octo. I keep seeing Cyclopeeze. My LFS doesn't have any, so was curious if theres a decent site that you may get your supplies from?

    I'm still thinking & undecided on which exactly to try first. I would like a O. Aculeatus, O. Mercatoris, or a O. Joubini. Still trying to find a page that has all the details I'm looking for. Kind of like an all in one temp, salinity, PH, size, maybe even a photo to refer to to make sure on each breed.

    I'm still so worried and I keep researching more & more. I've had so many sleepless nights full filled, just logging in here and reading over the posts, and journals. I guess no matter how much research I do I still have tons of questions, and double checking to do. lol I just don't want to jump right in there, like some people do. I want the setup to be complete before putting them in it. So I'm not in a panic running around checking to make sure its Octo proofed, nothing is in there to harm them.

    Seems like I haven't researched, but trust me I am everyday. I'm just reading so much about so many diff species. Sometimes it gets garbled in my brain. I blame the Alzheimer's kicking in too early. Maybe it's Adult ADHD? :tongue:
     
  4. CaptFish

    CaptFish Colossal Squid Staff Member Moderator

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    Lets see...
    weekly:
    Change filter-pad in wet/dry filter
    top off with fresh water
    clean glass in and out

    biweekly-monthly:
    test tank, nitates,nitrites, ammonia, pH, calcium, salinity.
    clean skimmer
    20-50% saltwater change
    change activated carbon (monthly)
    clean my salt creep

    Shrimps! Shrimps are great. I have had great luck with all my octopuses of all sizes have accepted frozen shrimp with no problems, even a hatchling I raised. I buy the bags of 'frozen peeled' shrimp from my grocery store. The size of the piece depends on the octopus, my smaller ones I usually feed them a piece that is between a pea and a lima bean in size. and kinda play it buy ear from there. For live foods I get live shrimp from my local bait store, but this is not an option for many people. or I get crabs from Cramer critters (Here) Just let him know what size octopus you have and he will send the right sized crabs. There is also aqua culture store (here) which is another source for fiddler crabs, shore shrimps and live foods of all sizes.

    We are all looking for that but unfortunately there is no such thing. Liveaquaria.com or Divertom.com have the most available info but it is still very limited, with Tom you can call and he MAY be willing to send you a picture but I'm not sure I never asked before.
     
  5. DWhatley

    DWhatley Cthulhu Staff Member Moderator

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    Good thought on the photo of each species. We have a resource forum that is very hard to locate if you would like to find scientific references on an individual species. I will see what I can come up with to add photos for ones I have kept and hope others will try to do likewise. I have a not ready for prime time paper on O. mercatoris I wrote several years ago and can email you the word document if you will PM me with an email addy. There is an official article Section on the front page with a list of Octopus Care articles and Nancy and Colin's book, Cephalopods Octopuses and Cuttlefishes for the Hom Aquarium should help give you a more comfortable level of what to expect.
     
  6. QueenB

    QueenB Vampyroteuthis Supporter

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    How to Octo proof 29g Biocube

    Anyone have any clue how to Octo proof the top of a Biocube 29? :confused:

    The slits in it for filtration will be the easy part. I'm thinking some bright light of some sort since some Octo's don't like it along with some sort of screen big enough for the water to filter through, but small enough that they can't get through. Not sure on right screen going to Lowe's this week to see what is available. I'm thinking plastic screen with a frame around it maybe to make it flush to the wall that has the slits in it. Would have to be an exact measurement. That should be fun with a filled tank. :hmm:

    I just ordered a Canister filter that has a 4 Stage Filtration system in it & built in UV Sterilizer.

    I was hoping to get an opinion? Here are the specs, and I'll include photos. It almost looks too good to be true. My uncle in Calif. has one, and says he loves it. But he only has a reef tank.

    525 Gallon Per Hour 5 Stage Pressurized Filter System With Ultraviolet Sterilizer.

    Includes:
    -FOUR Filtration Baskets With Three Mechanical Filter Pads

    -Super Activated Carbon In Filter Bag

    -High Efficiency Ceramic Biological Rings In Filter Bag

    -Bio Balls

    -Final Stage 9 Watt Ultraviolet Sterilizer.

    Features:

    -Quick Disconnect One Piece Inlet/Outlet For Easy Maintenance!

    -Push Button Auto Primer With Easy Start Automatic Plunger

    -Extra Large O Ring For Easy Sealing

    -4 Point Locking Levers

    -4 Filter Baskets With Pull Handles For Simple Maintenance

    -Locking Ring Hose Clamps On Inlets & Outlets

    -Return Spray Bar With Extra Fittings

    -Surface Skimmer Attachment On Inlet

    -Drain/Return Hoses

    -Safety Strainer on Drain.

    -On/Off Switch

    -Multiple Suction Cup Holders

    -UV Sterilizer

    -Heavy Duty Impeller

    -High Power Motor Unit

    -FREE BONUS MEDIA!

    -Super Activated Carbon

    -High Efficiency Ceramic Biological Media

    -3 Mechanical Fine Filter Pads

    -Bio Ball

    I'm also getting a SR# protein skimmer for the inside. The big one I have is just WAY TOO big. It's meant for a sump, which came with the 65g setup.

    So other then figuring out how to Octo proof it you think it might be ready in 3 months or less? The tank has been up and running with fish and corals in it. Their posted in my albums, not sure how to link my albums.
     

    Attached Files:

  7. DWhatley

    DWhatley Cthulhu Staff Member Moderator

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    Ramie,
    For a mercatoris (and ONLY a mercatoris), if you use the light on the sump 24/7, I don't think you need to use a netting on the grid. I worry that a netting will not allow the waste to get to the filtration or even cause an overflow when it gets blocked. If you feel that the grid needs blocking, a sponge placed on the sump side might be a better option but it would need daily cleaning for the same reason (and may immediately block the flow enough to cause overflow - caution advised on any kind of blockage here). I think the lid is enough top cover for a merc but I am not sure of the weight and snugness of the fit. If you can retro fit a 3" wide piece of acrylic around the border of the tank that is not touching the water, this should work to keep a mercatoris inside (my 15 gallon is set up this way and none of my mercs left the tank but I do have the water lever a good two inches from the top of the surround, note again, this is ONLY a consideration for O.mercatoris). The thoughts assume your cube is like mine and the water level can be maintained about 2" from the top of the tank.

    To show a link to your photo album, open a new window or tab and go to the album, copy the URL in the address bar and then use the link icon to post to a thread as you would an outside link.
     
  8. QueenB

    QueenB Vampyroteuthis Supporter

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  9. QueenB

    QueenB Vampyroteuthis Supporter

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    Slowly taking out the fish from the tank, so I can try to Octo proof it. Only have 1 Purple Lobster, 1 Six Line Wrasse, 1 Ocellaris Clown, , 1 Sally Lightfoot Crab, 4 mushrooms, Xenia, and 250 Nassarius snails.

    I got a great steal on 500 Nassarius snails on eBay for $40. They clean the algae off the tank pretty good, but not real well under the sand. I'm starting to wonder if my sand bed is too deep. For my 29g Biocube there is 3 inches of sand across the bottom.

    I set up that new Canister Filter, and finally got it working. It sounds like a waterfall in the sump now. Kind of loud, but my husband is going to cut the hood to fit the tubing for the canister filter. Hopefully it quiets it up a bit.

    For the filtration in the canister filter I have 4 containers for filtration media.

    1st is the Aqua Pure floss you can precut to fit in any filter area

    2nd is Bioballs

    3rd is Aqua Pure Phosphate pad, and Ammonia Pad

    4th is Aqua PureCarbon Pad

    Now in this canister, how it looks to run, is the water gets pushed through all that filtration media, then up a tube area past the UV lamp and then back out in the tank.
    Right now in the back I have cut sections to fit in the first chamber, white filter floss, Phosphate floss, Ammonia floss, then Carbon floss, then the water flows over through the center section and then part is sucked up through the canister filter, and back out and through the return section where the pump is to push it back in the tank. I'm still waiting on my SR3 Protein skimmer to come in, and I'll have to put the canister filter in the right side and put the SR3 in the center section.

    I just scrubbed the tank up pretty good so It's really cloudy in there, and I'll do a before and after shot of the canister filter in action.

    I would just like to state :heart:I LOVE TOOTHBRUSHES!:heart: They are so dang handy when it comes to cleaning things in a saltwater system. Scrubbing Hairline algae off rocks without hurting your corals. Inside of the outtake tube on the Biocubes, the vents for filtration in the back, cleaning up power heads, scrubbing up the Mag-Floats when they get a build up of algae. 1001 uses I swear, every time I have to clean something up on the saltwater tank I open my pencil box with the toothbrushes, and boom perfect cleaning utility!

    Here are the blue lights, and the Before shot.
    Gotta love cleaning days. Hands are raw from cleaning 3 salt water tanks. lol Hubby says they feel like sandpaper. lol

    http://www.tonmo.com/forums/album.php?albumid=131
     
  10. DWhatley

    DWhatley Cthulhu Staff Member Moderator

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    I prefer a minimized sand bed and really disturb it during water changes, sucking out the water as close to the sand as I can manage. It is are real waste collector and I feel the thinner the better (spouse won't accept a bare bottom tank or I would do that instead). I would use bagged carbon (placing carbon in a mesh filter bag) in place of the bio balls. I am not a fan of bioballs because over time they will become nitrate factories (Joe-Ceph seems to have worked around this using prefilters but his solution won't work in a canister) and you have enough biological filtration with your rock if it is well cured.
     
  11. Lmecher

    Lmecher Larger Pacific Striped Octopus Registered

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    Sorry for the hijack but...
    You are not alone in your :heart: for toothbrushes.
    El Diablo loved them too!

    [​IMG]
     
  12. DWhatley

    DWhatley Cthulhu Staff Member Moderator

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    I have found the denture brushes that have the long slim brush on the back as well as the stiff toothbrush to have all kinds of uses but they are probably too stiff for cleaning around silicone. Great for live rock though as well as scrubbing grout :grin:
     
  13. QueenB

    QueenB Vampyroteuthis Supporter

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    I was almost going to do a bare bottom tank, but thought they liked to sift and move the sand around. I know my mated Maroons are going nuts in my tank right now trying to nest or whatever it is they do. They stick to the corner just under the lower vents, and move sand like mad.
    I thought I read in a post here before that they like to rearrange rock and move sand around. The finer the sand the better so they don't hurt themselves right? But advise would be to take out a few inches? Theres about 3 inches minimum in there now, so maybe about an inch across the bottom?
    LFS told me deep sand bed filter is nice with the Nassarius, but they don't clean the sand as well as I think they should. Wish the water was clear right now, I would take a photo of the 250 Nassarius snails all over the piece of shrimp on a bamboo skewer for the Purple Lobster. So funny, their normally all under the sand, but as soon as you put food in that tank, they come out of the woodwork like cockroaches on a horror movie. :bugout:
     
  14. QueenB

    QueenB Vampyroteuthis Supporter

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    Thanks D for that info!

    Kind of leaning towards a Merc. But are you sure with the way the 29g is setup? I'm gonna take some detailed photos of the inside of my tank Wed and show you what I mean. The spacing between the tank rims are kind of awkward, and trying to be extra careful in the sump area.

    http://www.tonmo.com/forums/album.php?albumid=131

    Some recent shots in the Misc album I just took to explain what I meant about the little bit of space on each side, and the space between the hood and the top of the back wall with the filtration slits is the other thing I was concerned about. Just so worried one with get caught in the filtration.

    I was looking through Lowe's tonight for some sort of lights for the inside to hang on the back flip lid. I have an old roll of some sort of blue lights my husband got a few years ago, but their not too bright I don't think. I may go back and look for something with a shorter string of lights on it, but brighter white. Too bad X-mas is over, bet they would have had same rope in white. :(

    I was looking for a red light, but not sure if I can find red Bulbs in the style of bulbs for my Biocube.

    http://www.tonmo.com/forums/album.php?albumid=131

    I may check tomorrow for lights at my LFS I need more RO/DI water for my top offs anyway. Can't wait for income tax. I'm so buying one. Tired of driving an hour to go pick some up. Then driving an hour back. Just wish they weren't so expensive, or at least filters lasting longer.
     
  15. DWhatley

    DWhatley Cthulhu Staff Member Moderator

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    I kept them for a long time and would always be amazed at how many were left when I thought they were all eaten when they would all rise from the sand.

    A DSB is NOT a good idea for an octo tank. It can be beneficial if you have it in a sump or pass water over it in its own bucket but the idea of a deep sand bed is to leave it undisturbed to create bacteria that is poisonous but will consume nitrates. It needs an oxygen free environment so you can't disturb the bed and that does not work in an octo tank. My personal preference is an inch to an inch and a half along the viewable area and none under or behind the LR. In our Nano, I still get heavy gray waste because the things have bottom circulation in this tank is awful (the few residence I keep in it survive well but I am constantly cleaning the sand).

    All the mercs I have had avoided the sand and chose dens in the rock. If you will put a cluster of giant purple barnacles (be sure you get untreated clusters) about 2" off the substrate floor you may find the merc will choose it for a den and be more visible than otherwise. I have had good luck with this method and have been able to watch them more often than most keepers. Sleazy, my last merc never came out of her den but was always visible and would hand feed daily.

    A 1 - 1.5" sand bed is suitable for most octopuses we keep. The ones that will den on the floor of the aquarium will, indeed, move the sand but this is to remove it from the den. Brooding females are particularly noted for not wanting sand in the nursery. I suspect this is to minimize critters that eat eggs but I have not read a reason for the action. There are species that live in the sand but they are not common in the trade or are animals that we would prefer not to see captured for the casual hobbiest.
     
  16. QueenB

    QueenB Vampyroteuthis Supporter

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    Just so I can start poking around, where do you suggest finding a decent Merc seller? I was looking at a few sights, but their never guaranteed. I don't want to accidently get a Briareus or a Vulgaris. I'm not gonna know how to tell the difference right away. Been finding some photos and saving them to my pc of what each looks like.

    How long do you think I'll be ready with the 29 for a Merc? Tank has cycled for a year minimum. Had corals in there till this week. Removed everything except the huge LR piece in the center. I wanted to keep it in there, for the Merc as there is a cavern in the left front piece that my 6 line wrasse has been sleeping in. He vanished one night, and freaked me out, so I dug out the flash light and went crazy and there he was.

    There is also a tunnel like entrance in and out the back of this piece of rock. One of the most unique pieces I ever saw. Only downfall is the Xenia at the top that is growing like weeds. I don't know how to remove them and put them in the other tank. I have tons more LR in my other tank, but their just stackable flat pieces. This one would be perfect except for the weeds. I may just have to say ho hum, and give it a good brushing. Can't keep much corals with a Octo anyway right?

    Removing the Bioballs tomorrow. Will prob use some more of those ceramic tubes. I plan on rinsing them every 2 weeks in saltwater. I also have these small pebble type rocks in a small filter type bag that a friend gave me, and he said they work great. I may just try those.
     
  17. QueenB

    QueenB Vampyroteuthis Supporter

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  18. QueenB

    QueenB Vampyroteuthis Supporter

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    Lmecher your making me so anxious to get one! That is a beautiful shot!

    I can't wait to take photos of mine without spooking. Just starting in learning how to take photos. I have an Olympus E-600 I specifically bought just to take photos of my tanks. lol Still trying to figure out how to take photos of my Ocellaris Clownfish. He's too quick. But my female Maroon is a ham for the camera. She comes right up along side at night, and just wiggles and smiles. She's so cute.
     
  19. DWhatley

    DWhatley Cthulhu Staff Member Moderator

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    DEFINITELY KEEP THE LR. It is your primary biological filter. The barnacles look ideal but you can even go with a small cluster with shells about the size of the smallest in that group (say three or four of different sizes but at least one small one). You can also break up a larger set if needed (they don't break like you want them to though) but the larger cluster can be placed directly on the substrate floor where a small cluster needs to be set firmly into the live rock.

    You can also keep the xenia with the octo. Most mushrooms, leathers and gorgonia are fine. I usually have a feather duster or two and have found a set of polyps that don't make the octos react. Anything fancier that that though and you are likely to create an uncomfortable if not deadly environment with a small tank (and I avoid much else even in the larger ones). For clean up crew, I like serpent stars, brittle stars (about 1 per 20 gallons of water) and snails (hermits work to but I find it best to keep one or the other and not both or the hermits will kill the snails).

    My best thought on octoproofing the tank after looking at your photos is to attach 2 - 3" wide acrylic under the lid lip. The lip is very narrow but you might get away with using automotive trim tape (drain the tank down like for a water change and get the underside TOTALLY dry before trying the tape). It does not need to be thick, it just needs to keep the octo from climbing up the sides and out. If the lip is too narrow for this then bending pieces of acrylic to create a 90 degree L and attaching to the outer wall with either tape or silicone would produce the same effect. I would not worry much about the overflow grid. If you can get lighting back there, it will also disuade it from going over the top into the sump. Mercs are listed as one of the higher escaping octos but this had not been my experience but you do need to keep them from crawling up and over.

    There is no such thing as a guarantee on species. Tom is pretty good at knowing a merc from a briareus and most of the people that find them in the live rock have had dwarfs but species is always a challenge (now you know why I have multiple octo tanks :grin:)
     
  20. QueenB

    QueenB Vampyroteuthis Supporter

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    I remember! The MTS Mult-Tank Syndrome! :)

    Going to think and ponder over it with my husband about the Acrylic idea. Sounds Challanging, but at the same Brilliant!

    Do you have any suggestions for the Red lights? Didn't see any at Lowe's tonight that would fit that hood.

    I think for the back I'm gonna find some white lights like the blue ones I found and try those.

    Gonna check around for some more Barnacle's before I decide which.

    The Ocotpus is gonna have a Trump Plaza by the time I'm done. lol
     
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