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Octopus Proofing a Red Sea Max 250

QueenB

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I'm looking for some help in modifying my new Red Sea Max 250. I need to seriously Octo proof this tank. I want to start with a Merc, but gradually over the years I plan on going for different Octo's. Maybe all the way up to a Bimac. provided my tank be sufficient.

I'm so meticulous about everything and take my time in doing it. I'm almost done with the Biocube 29's but since I bought the RSM I stopped on the 29's.

I'm looking into having a thick peice of Plexiglass made for the inside to block the Octo from getting out. I want to pay great detail to the filtration aspect of this large tank. I'm trying to figure a way to block the vent for filtration without blocking it permanantly. I want something I can slide in and out when I want to clean it every morning. But I want it to allow the water to flow through enough so as no debris gets caught. I don't plan on feeding and leaving carcasses in there, but want any small floating thing to be able to pass through the screen and catch on the filter pads. I haven't been able to find any screen large enough for what I'm considering.

I also have no idea on how to modify a tank. So any detailed suggestions if you know anything about a RSM 250, please chime in. I'm all ears!

Here are a few photos of my dilema.

 

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Can anything else go wrong this week? :confused: Well SURE it can.

If you click on my last photo a few times to get the actual size of the photo, and zoom in to the very back left corner, your going to see what gave me a heart attack :bugout: today filling my tank up. It's not even 2 weeks old! I got it on the 19th.

I was just starting to set it up, I just got the other Red Sea Max Starter Kit to day. I had to special order another since the substrate wasn't enough to fill the bottom of the tank in the last kit I ordered. I like the look of the substrate. Tiny substrate balls.

Daughter says "MOM STOP THERES A CRACK!" My heart stopped I swear. And of course, it was after 4:30 pm. Their only open from 8 am -4:30 pm CST. :yelling:

I called my LFS and they said that they think Red Sea gives a 1 year warranty. I sure hope so. Or I'm out $2065 for my dream tank. :cry:

I need a vacation!

The photo is of the substrate. It's really light and airy. I thought it would be a lot easier for the Octo to move, when brooding, or being finicky as they like to be. Or easier on the Cuttles to fluff up, like I've seen them do. It's actually quite appealing if you see it up close.

:notworth:
 

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I wish you serious luck with the tank issue and not having to argue that is was likely cracked to begin with (hard to know for sure and harder to prove but without a major wack and then some, this should not have happened)

I would think about a different route for protecting the filter area. I have holes much larger in all three tanks. The one with the largest holes has allowed a young octo to hide in the overflow area but I have a cover over it and once Tatanka was past hatchling size, it was not a problem (he and others did take a trip to the filter sock when they were first hatched). What I would suggest instead of using some kind of media that will always be a concern for tank overflow would be to see what kind of lighting you can put over the overflow box to keep it well lit 24/7. A submersible light would be ideal. Even diurnals will shy away from barren unlit areas, it is the nice dark black hole that attracts them (in the case of hatchlings the water flow is likely involved but not for anything thumb sized or larger).
 
You sure? The vented area for the filtration part looks like its going to be the rough part with the water flow being so quick. I put on hydor flo deflectors over the stock returns to help distribute the water flow in the back of the tank instead of slamming against the front. I heard it really pushes the water, but I won't find out till I talk to Red Sea Max, about what they can do to resolve this issue.

I have another idea for the Lighting in the back then. I seen some new lights at the LFS. I'm gonna pick one up, and try it out. It's a ropw of submersible lights. They come in red, white, blue, and green. If the white ones are bright enough, I just may use those in the back. The other lights I got online aren't very bright. Son wants them for his car when he graduates from boot camp. lol

Could I see some photos of how you have one of your tanks that doesn't have an overflow. Just afraid it's gonna get sucked into the back.

I'm such a worry wart could you imagine how my kids felt growing up. lol
 
All my octo tanks (except the merc tank) have external sumps but they also have a DIY box in front of the drain tube (this minimzed the chance of fish etc going down the drain and limits the amount of water that can siphon out of the tank during a power outage). The one I have that is closest to your set up was originally an all in one (custom design by a friend and I acquired the tank after his death). We drilled the outside of the intank sump to accomodate new plumbing but the situation is similar. I kept a night light over the small sump area when Cassy was smaller (I no longer worry about her trying to go through their now and have removed the light). I tried sponges and a number of other blocking devices and the light was by far the best solution.
 
You think I should put a modified piece of Plexiglass over the top of the tank to ? The lid is quite heavy so I don't think they could open it especially when it's going to have my Camera's on top for emergency photo taking. But was just trying to make it as Octo proof as possible. My only concern really was the filtration section. I'm gonna give it a go.

If Red Sea sends me a new tank, I'm cycling that baby immediately and may try an appropriate size Octo. I want a Young one, but not a TINY one. I also want to make sure its eating, and have food on hand that it has been accustomed to. I think that was what happened with the Baby Cuttles.
 
I have found that having a lip around the edge of an aquarium is helpful for octoproofing (like most acrylic tanks have for support). For our glass tank, we bought a sheet of acrylic sized for the whole tank and then cut holes for the openings and lined the water side of the holes with overlapping acrylic so that the covers were flush with the top. I highly recommend a hinged arrangement rather than something you have to lift off. If you will look at Cassy's video just before the mating (the one where the still shows her arms out of the water) you will get a feel for why I recommend this set up. If you have a rambunctious animal, trying to get to and place a take off piece of acrylic is more of a challenge than I would want to accept. Also, by splitting up the top into multiple hinged lids, there is less exposure for escape during cleaning.
 
Well I just got off the Phone with Pinky @ Red Sea Fish and she said its under warranty, and their going to send one out today. So another 3-5 business days, and I get the new (uncracked I hope) tank.

Now I'm stuck with the other one. I don't want to chance it with filling it the rest of the way up to test it. Such a waste on such a beautiful tank. But I'm just so happy their going to give me a new one. yay! :biggrin2:

Now to tear down the old one to take out all the parts. :indiffer:
 
Parts are good for backup of little things that break, like the hinges or slides on the top, or to experiment with hood modifications (for SURE keep the plastic over the lights in a safe place, eventually you will want to replace it). Cracked acrylic tanks make great sumps (we have patched one that was cracked in shipping and use it this way) with a little patch work but I would not trust cracked glass with much water volume. I have seen people patch glass cracks by sandwiching pieces of glass on both sides of the crack but without a good understanding of how to go about it I would not attempt for fear of the crack spreading with the water pressure. If you know someone with a snake, land turtle or lizard, they might be delighted to acquire the tank though.
 
Their only sending me a new tank. No hood, pumps, filters, etc. I have to take apart the one that just cracked. Then put it all in the new one.

The crack was not in the glass, but in the actual frame at the back left hand side. It's straight through to the glass, but no crack in the actual glass itself. But for $2000 I don't want a scratch on it. lol

If they don't take this one after they drop off the new one. I may try to find someone, that can actually repair it, I'll set it up in my basement and maybe use it as a glorious Crab Breeding tank. Once I learn how to breed crabs that is. :fingerscrossed:

Here is a close up of the crack.
 

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If I lived closer to you I would honestly give it to you. Just so I could visit your Octopus garden in trade. I love watching your videos, and going through your journals. I'm just now looking online to find the parts I need that come with it originally to make sure it's usable. Mainly the 2 pumps, heater,& the protein skimmer is all I need. Although I wouldn't mind another hood as well. Then I could use it as an excuse after a few years to be able to get another one. OOOO IDEAS IDEAS IDEAS! Your a bad influence on me. But in a good way. lol
 
My husband says if I make the broken one an Octo tank to, he's taking over the basement. And making into his men only Xbox room for him and my son. I'll be sure to put a couch bed down there and maybe a small fridge. lol
 

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