OCTOPUS: COMMON CAUSE OF DEATH

Nancy

Titanites
Staff member
Moderator
#2
I've been keeping track of this with bimacs for a couple of years now. There's no one overriding cause. Some early deaths last year were vaguely due to human error (escape where the tank wasn't properly sealed, family member turning up the temperature on the heater, power stayed off during a weeks absence, etc.)

But this year we couldn't determine why some of them died. Reason unknown. There were several that survived a few months and then passed away.

I will continue to track this and hope that we gain some additional knowledge.

Nancy
 

brett

O. vulgaris
Registered
#4
yeah, thank you. I figured someone more experienced than I on here would have been keeping trakcof this and they were. I am almost completely ready to go on my octo tank which with research and all is almost a year and a half in the making. So I am real edgy right now about actually getting the octo. I want to make his first two or so months as good as possible and am trying to gain common mistake info. thank you for the help and any other knowledge that would help me in this reguard that isn't regular octo care would be greatly aprecciated. thanks again,
Brett
 

cthulhu77

Titanites
Supporter
#5
My last octo (a pygmy digueti) only died when subjected to having crawled (still never did find out how...clever little bugger) out of his tank, across a 40 foot expanse of carpet, underneath the front door (tight squeeze, too) and almost all the way out the driveway to the street...he was quite old for a pygmy (almost a year) and full of beans...you have to admire his spunk, but it sure was depressing...
 

Andy Lister

Vampyroteuthis
Registered
#6
Not mixing your octo and checking it's pH and temp when it arives and just popping it into the tank.

If they die for no apparent reason i'm sure you could send them off to a lab for histology to discover... IDEXX are the one we use in the UK

~Andy
 

Andy Lister

Vampyroteuthis
Registered
#9
ooops, sorry for forgetting that not everyone is as insane as me and uses these terms!

Mixing = Acclimatising

when you float your bag in your tank to correct the temperature between the two and then slowly mix the water of the two of them together before putting them in the tank.

Ideally with Octos i tend to spend well over 30 mins mixing them, after they have been floated for quite a while. I tend to give 10 minutes for every degree of difference in the water temperatures (for examply, I get a bimac in, my tank is 21 and the bag water is 24 24-21 = 3. 3x10 mins = 30 mins floating before I start mixing the water). I've done this with hundreds of cephs and have only ever lost ones that look like they are dying in the bag and have been badly packed (usually Eldone cirrhosaare the worst)

~Andy
 

brett

O. vulgaris
Registered
#11
:?: i have had a reef tank for years and every time i check the Ph it seems to have never changed and is always at 8.3. I do however add dKh buffer to the water when i add fresh water to the tank. What causes Ph spikes (up or down) in your tanks? and how do you regulate Ph?
 

Andy Lister

Vampyroteuthis
Registered
#12
I use natural incomming sea water pumped in straight from the sea so doon't have to regulate it.

But having a calcium based element in a filter (cockle shell for example) is good for buffering it back to 7.

I know that when we bag and transport sharks that the pH can get to 4 so it must be the way that they metabolise that does it!

~Andy
 

Jean

Colossal Squid
Supporter
#13
As for octi's dying for no apparent reason..............many are juvenile and in the wild the majority would die (otherwise the earth would sink past the Galactic centre cos of the weight of all the octis!) so it may be nothing we're doing.....just nature taking it's course.


J
 

Nancy

Titanites
Staff member
Moderator
#14
Jean, that's what I was thinking - the tank bred bimacs are quite young, often only two months. A few of these have died for no apparent reason.

The wild caught ones we had last year were more like three or four months old, so a selection process had already taken place.

Nancy
 

Andy Lister

Vampyroteuthis
Registered
#17
I think that it could be a case of bad diet from birth.

I do a lot of Seahorse breeding and have recently started breeding Hippocampus reidi, they live happily and grow fantasticly for around 3 months and then they all die, religiously... over the space of around 1 week I can lose hundreds.

Some were sent hor histology and turns out they are filling themselves up on artemia nauplii and not on the copeopods. With seahorses not having stomachs (a little problem) and the artemia being of very little use as a good source of nutrition we changed to diet to copeopods and nothing else and they are fine now and have been around for about 7 months! YAY

In short, they may eat fine to start with but they may eat some of the wrong food and have no room left for something thats actually nutritious.

~Andy
 

Nancy

Titanites
Staff member
Moderator
#18
Interesting, Andy! Those artemia must have been quite tasty! Thanks for telling us about this.

Although I don't know all the details in all the cases, I know of at least two cases in which the baby bimacs were well nourished and then died, kept by people who had previously raised a wild-caught bimac successfully.

Nancy
 

Jean

Colossal Squid
Supporter
#19
Andy Lister said:
I think that it could be a case of bad diet from birth.

I do a lot of Seahorse breeding and have recently started breeding Hippocampus reidi, they live happily and grow fantasticly for around 3 months and then they all die, religiously... over the space of around 1 week I can lose hundreds.

Some were sent hor histology and turns out they are filling themselves up on artemia nauplii and not on the copeopods. With seahorses not having stomachs (a little problem) and the artemia being of very little use as a good source of nutrition we changed to diet to copeopods and nothing else and they are fine now and have been around for about 7 months! YAY

In short, they may eat fine to start with but they may eat some of the wrong food and have no room left for something thats actually nutritious.

~Andy
This is a little of the ceph topic........sorry boss don't :nofeet: me!

Andy we use rotifers for our newborn H. abdomenalis Then gradually move to amphipods, mysids, euphausids and crab larvae. Only use Artemia when the weather's too bad to put out plankton nets etc and then we fortify it. Our current display animals are now trained to take frozen euphausids a great advantage over winter!!! With this we can have about 95% survival through to adolescence (unless the power goes down and the O2 levels drop :x )

With baby cephs we use much the same diet but skip the rotifers and add in larval and juvenile fish. All fairly nutritious stuff but we still have unexplained deaths. When you consider that a female octi is capable (in some species) of laying 10's of 1000's of eggs (and more!) then the odds are that the majority will die no matter what we do. Having said that we don't breed cephs all that often. Our main display ceph is the large octi Pinnoctopus cordiformis and they're not very tolerant about sharing tank space with another ........typically within a half hour or so we'll have 1 left .......and that one has had a good meal :shock:


Anyhow that's my little :grad: for now I'll get off my soap box!!

J
 

Colin

Colossal Squid
Supporter
#20
The kuda seahorses that Mykela (my other half) kept were seen eating some artemia and later on the Artemia were seen again passing straight through still alive.

Feeding brine shrimp to animals is like feeding them packets of crisps (chips) all day :mrgreen:

Andy, speak to Keith about Corophium volutator, its what we used in the end and what i used for baby briareus octos...

:)
 

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