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new octopus tank

I can't help on the canister. I hate their maintenance and only have one (non-octo tank that can't take a sump). I know that Corw314 and Sedna both use them successfully so hopefully one or the other will know about brand and sizing.
 
Can anyone tell me what size filter/ skimmer (how many gallons its rated for)i need for a 40 gal? And any reccomendations to someone on a tight budget. As for a heater all I need is any heater rated for a 40 gal tank right? Im looking at a aculeatus.
 
Ryan Smith;151080 said:
Can anyone tell me what size filter/ skimmer (how many gallons its rated for)i need for a 40 gal? And any reccomendations to someone on a tight budget. As for a heater all I need is any heater rated for a 40 gal tank right? Im looking at a aculeatus.

I'm personally fond of fluval canister filters. I'm not sure exactly is you need a larger one than recommended. but here is a fluval 205-rated for 40 gallons
http://cgi.ebay.com/FLUVAL-205-AQUA...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item35a77b2640

keep in mind if you do use a canister filter your protein skimmer will have to hang from the tank.
 
Heaters can be problematic and I generally recommend you not use one unless it is really needed if you don't have a sump (what is the temperature of your house in the winter and summer at the coldest point?) If you do opt to use one, I highly recommend getting something with a remote (wired) control, does not have a remote probe, is marked as for saltwater and is metal (vs glass).

I think we pretty much exhausted the protein skimmer thoughts in the prior Octopus Care discussion.

Because you are not planning a sump, some kind of cascading filter would be preferable to a canister for aiding O2 exchange (as well as ease of cleaning but they are harder to octo proof). If you opt for a canister, then the returned water should be above the water line to improve (but it won't provide as much) the release of CO2.
 
Thanks again. I remebered skimmer = 2x tank size. But I didnt remeber what brands are good. I wasnt sure whether I needed a 40 gal filter or a larger one. My room temp in the summer might be 78 or so. In the winter (now) its 70. Hopefuly I wont need a chiller.
 
The tank temperature will be warmer than your room because of the lights (if you use them and can be an intentional source of heat if you design it this way - I use the light on the 15 for my merc as the only added heat source and set it differently in the summer) and pumps. One of the things we all failed to mention that you will need (but fortunately is inexpensive - $2-$4for a stick on and $5-$10 for a digital - suggest getting both) is a thermometer :oops:.

I would hold off getting a heater but would look for a small fan that can be mounted to help take heat off the tank (a lot depends on how you octoproof and how you areate your water as to how much heat is retained and how much can be removed by fan). Record you water temperature vs your ambient (room temperature) as you prepare the tank. If it starts to exceed 78 you will need to find a way to cool it. Usually a small fan will work to drop the temp 2-6 degrees.

I know there are a lot of "it depends" here but solving the problems is part of the experience. You will also need to remembe to turn off the fan in the winter. Some of the fancier thermometers have high and low settings with alarms (still not overly expensive but higher than what I listed). Unfortunately the only one I tried like this was not a very practical unit for an aquarium so you are on your own if you experiment with one and can report back for effectiveness if you go this route.
 
Thanks. I think my water temp should be fine in the summer. My house has a very strange AC unit. My house has holes in the floors and celing that blow jets of cold air. For some reason they only used it in 1960 (when the house was built) If its 100 degrees in your house and you stand under a hole in the celing you will get cold. So I think if anything Id need a heater.
 
I have a question about octo proofing my tank. What do you use to keep your octos out of filters etc. I have a window screen which would work for keeping my octo out of things, but I dont know what its made out of. I do know it will not rust, but thats not my concern. It is metal, and I dont know if it has A. metals that are bad for octos or B. will leave traces of the metal in the water (if its harmful) Can anyone shed some light on the subject? And if the screen is a no go, what do you use?
 
NO METAL - ANYTHING in the water, even aluminum breaks down in SW. I have excess fiberglass screen I could send you be I am afraid it would be too fine and block too easily (PM me with an address if you want it anyway as a backup or to experiment). I have a large amount of excess from another project (not aquarium related) but some other alternate would be better. Hopefully someone else can make successfully tried suggestions. I use sumps for all my larger octos so my needs for octoproofing are minimal and I don't shield the Koralias (the only in-tank moving parts machinery) with anything other than LR (but am considering doing more).
 
Thats ok, thank for offering, but ill find something. I just wanted to know if it would work. Wait, you dont cover your koralia? Thats what I planned on covering. I may not need to cover my filter, as it is covered already. I can always find something at Lowes if need be, but Id only need to cover my skimmer if anything.
 
For the Koralia's a sponge is the best idea that I know of (weekly cleaning is a must or you will burn up the motor). You can concoct something or look for an intake prefilter sponge (this is what they look like but you will have to look around for sizing or cut somthing to fit) that will stretch over it (some have more give than others and this one is not likely to fit so it is just an example). It IS important to add the small end cap that is a mystery item in the box (I threw one away, not knowing what it was when I first got mine - be SURE to use it). We have had a couple of mystery arm clippings and nippings that suggest the Koralia's may be an injury attraction to smaller octos. I still have not covered mine but am contemplating doing so.
 
Yeah, it took me a while to figure out what that piece was for. The instructions are kind of iffy, but the product is good, reliable, and cheap. I dont need to cover my filter I dont believe. It already has a 6-8 inch tube with wholes in the bottom part of the tube and then the prop box is up above the tube. I may need to cover my skimmer (when I get it) but for now I'm fine. I am probably getting my ro/di this week. The problem with them is half of them dont have brands, so it makes it hard to find out if they are good. I am probably getting a coralife pure flo 50gpd. But what is the difference between 3 cycle and 4 cycle ro/di machines? And are ro/di machines stationary? or is there just a hose you can remove and attach to any water source?
 
I have an overflow with 1/8th inch slits in it, and two Koralias, not covered. I've never had any escape problems or damaged arms, but I've never had a very small octopus in with the Koralias.
Just to be thorough, titanium is the one metal that is okay in a marine tank. I've never seen titanium screen, but if it existed you could use it.
 
Good point Joe-Ceph, I never think about titanium except for heaters.

I have sworn by the Koralias but we have had a recent for sure nick, I have seen Kooah put an arm into the cage (no nick and the spin pushed the arm away from the impeller) and several mysterious nicks and arm amputations (Puddles is one of these) where there was nothing else known in the tank. Mine are still uncovered but I am leaning toward at least disrupting using LR over the intake.

The "stages" on an RO unit refer to the pre and post filtering canisters. You HAVE to read to know the difference between a 3 - 6 stage unit include. The MINIMUM you want to buy is one that has a particulate, at least 2 carbons, an RO and a DI (this comes after the RO) filter (NORMALLY called a 5 stage filter). Typically a 6 stage filter will include an addititional carbon filter after the RO and separted from the DI. Its use is to provide NON DI (deionizing) water from a storage tank. The DI is the final stage and if you have a storage tank, it will not be DI water but the water will pass throught the DI sand when you open the valve. For a long time DI water was rated ad non potable (I believe this has changed) because the resin would get into the water and systems with a spigot can be set up to bypass the DI.

They make a few portable units but the standard syle needs to be wall mounted.
 

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Hmmmm, I may not be able to make Ro/di water. My parents 100% would not let me mount the unit. That and a 5-6 stage ro/di costs a lot more then I planned. Does anyone know any good portable, 5/6 stage ro/di units? I was lookin at coralife ro/di units but from what I have seen they only have 3/4 stage units. Im going to do some more looking around, but recomendations would be good. Thanks
 

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