[Octopus]: Ripley - Abdopus sp My 'cephalopodic' journey-a beginner's progressive notes

IMO, look for one/some of the others. I have found the blue legs to be the most offensive. There are other types that are less aggressive (to each other as well as to snails). They do cost more but they are larger and some are even a bit entertaining. Pretty much any of the crabs on this page priced under $8.00 are common and would be good for your tank. The more expensive crabs need a fully cycled aquarium AND would become expensive food for the octo.
 
Looking over that list the Scarlet Reef hermit sounds promising.
When you mentioned the blues being a problem-does this include the blue leg hermit like the one in the link you sent?
 
Size wise- I'm assuming the smaller around 1 inch size will be better.

Starting to realize how many hermit crab species are out there- and I thought this would be the easy part lol. Looking at the Scarlet reef hermit.

These are a few of the ones I am liking from that page:
Calcinus tibicen, "Orange Claw Hermit"
Phimochirus operculatus "White Claw Hermit"

Though I also like the look of Calcinus elegans, "Electric Orange Hermit"-but do not see as much information on them?
 
Last edited:
Any size is fine, they don't get very big but you will want to put a variety of shells in the tank for them to grow into as they do not produce their own shells.
 
-The first bump in the road-
So far everything has been going smoothly and I have been taking my time. But as with any learning process there are always those awkward annoying moments. Mine was today.

Sadly I did lose one of my Chromis fish. As to where it actually went I have no clue. But the night prior I noticed it swimming funny. Oddly just earlier I had everything tested and everything has been testing within the perfect range. The other fish and the two snails that I only just added all seemed fine. Temperature good. A puzzle.

I have a marker on my sump to know when to add fresh water and that showed it as still normal as well. A puzzle.

I also checked with my hydrometer-but I am finding I am not liking this device too much due to I get different results with it. I have a hard time knowing which is the actual reading. I have also heard they are not as accurate?

Being determined to know what is going on (Mysteries-I have to solve them) I took a water sample back in. Sure enough my salinity was too high.

So to fix the problem was easy-add fresh water. But now to find the missing fish as was suggested. This was where things went crazy.

Looked everywhere...this side of the tank, that side of the tank, top bottom, then I thought maybe stuck in the rocks?
Well in my attempt to find the fish I forgot I had a small coral frag that was a freebie on one of the rocks. Which suddenly decided to go rogue and take off. So now I had 2 things MIA. -_-

While frantically trying to find the small coral, sand started to rise. I did my best not to upset too much sand but well so it was. Luckily I finally found the small green coral which had decided to jump off its rock. Trying to get the coral back on...well that wasn't going well. So I for the moment put it inside a small makeshift container (a plastic breeding holder for bettas) on top of its rock until I can get some coral cement. (I believe that is what is used?)

I was really worried about that small coral-yes I will admit for a brief second I did consider grabbing my scuba gear and going all out to save it.

During this whole process-the two snails burred mostly in the sand save their eyes simply watched me-at least someone had some enjoyment of the whole ordeal. -_-

I never could find the missing fish-not sure what to do on that end either. Ugh.

Lessons learned-
1) Trust your instincts-I had wondered about the salinity level and doubted what my hydrometer was telling me as it didn't seem accurate.
2) More then one water line marker-I have one marker set but have learned it the water is not moving through to that end as quickly in the sump as the other sectioned off compartment. Plan to add a few more markers to refer to.
3) Nothing wrong with investing in more equipment to help you-I have a refractometer coming-I am more used to them anyways.
 
You will probably find it months from now, dried in some out of the way place... I usually watch the level on the largest surface area, in my case, it was the main tank. Also, on the sump, it usually is a set level, so it might not show at all on the sump.
I never trust hydrometers, but then I am not one to rely on testing :goofysca: but I have had a lot of experience with many different tanks, so I trust my gut and water changes more than test kits... I wouldn't recommend my methods for someone just starting out - there is a lot to be learned from watching a tank cycle.
 
You will probably find it months from now, dried in some out of the way place... I usually watch the level on the largest surface area, in my case, it was the main tank. Also, on the sump, it usually is a set level, so it might not show at all on the sump.
I never trust hydrometers, but then I am not one to rely on testing :goofysca: but I have had a lot of experience with many different tanks, so I trust my gut and water changes more than test kits... I wouldn't recommend my methods for someone just starting out - there is a lot to be learned from watching a tank cycle.

Thanks for the tips.
Yes-there is a lot to learn. But I also foresee this hobby having great rewards to it once I get things down to a T.
I am taking the tank itself slow so I can have the best opportunities to learn as I go and get the hands on experience.

Currently I am enjoying my two snails as they are sorta comical to watch. One of them is actually impressively large.
 
Okay need some advice here:
I was given a free small soft green coral for my tank. It fell off the piece of rock it was on and since then I can not for the life of me get it to stay put no matter how many times I carefully place it onto my live rock. It keeps falling back down to the sand. Tips?
 
Guessing from your description, you are talking about a ricordea or flower anemone. Both attach themselves to rockwork but the ricordea rarely move once attached (except when detached by current or other disruption) where the anemones intentionally relocate if they are unhappy. There are numerous reattachment schemes you can find on the internet (here is a search for reattaching ricordea and here is one for anemones ) The methods range from using super glue, wrapping them with rubber bands and stabbing them with sterile needles.

Before you try anything that is invasive I would recommend finding a smallish rock (bigger than the critter when fully expanded) that has a thumb sized divot. Place the rock away from all water flow and high (ie closest to the light) in the aquarium. Place the coral in the divot and monitor for about 2 weeks, replacing it in the same spot if it falls. It won't stay in the hole but hopefully will decide it is comfortable enough to open up and attach its foot somewhere along the rock surface. Once it appears to have attached, leave it for another week before moving its rock. The reason I suggest a smallish rock is to allow you to move it later when you aquascape. It wouldn't hurt to gently squirt a little bit of finely ground shrimp (or even just the saltwater broth from pulverizing a shrimp in a blender) over the coral every other or every third day.
 
Thank you!
I believe it is some sort of mushroom coral. It got a bit banged up floating around but I have placed it into a situation like your directions. Hopefully it is able to come out of its not quite happy appearance.
 
A fellow aquarium enthusiast suggested using Mollys for my fish in the tank as they are easier to catch once your tank is cycled and you can maybe use them as a food source for your ceph-thoughts?
 
I am very negative on keeping any live fish in an aquarium with an octopus. Fish tend to pester octopuses, especially when they are eating (this is true in the wild as well) to obtain the scraps of the messy eater. I strongly believe that the octos never successfully acclimate to a captive environment with fish, will likely become shy (or shyer than otherwise) and will usually kill but not eat (sometimes they eat the soft belly) the fish as it is not their typical fare. The one exception might be a hand sized (or larger) O. vulgaris as this species tends to eat everything in the tank and is not easily intimidated (but I still recommend against it).

There are a number of fishless ways to cycle a tank . I prefer using fresh live rock, adding clean up crew after the initial cycle and overfeeding the tank for a couple of months. Today, if I have to start a new tank, I use the rock from my existing tanks to speed up the process.
 
Okay great-So it is possible to cycle a tank without fish! Been hearing different things there. Yes I will be sure then to have absolutely no fish.
The next question in regards to that- is it recommended for a new salt keeper as myself to acquire the skills for an octopus with out having a tank of anything but cleaner crew?
 

Shop Amazon

Shop Amazon
Shop Amazon; support TONMO!
Shop Amazon
We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon and affiliated sites.
Back
Top