Hachi - Nocturnal Bimaculoides?

Hachi died yesterday. :frown: Sorry I didn't say so sooner but I was busy. I wasn't home when it died, Hachi was buried. I will still try to pursue the cause of Hachi's death.
Thanks,
Cameron
 
Sorry Cameron, No matter how many I have kept, this part is always very sad.

One thing I did not ask directly and may not have any bearing but what is your tank specific gravity (salinity)?
 
Alex,
Full salinity ~1.026 SG is preferred for cephs (and corals) over the lower 1.020 often kept to minimize parasites in fish. I have noticed my octos get sluggish if my salinity drops so am a firm believer.
 
One of the things you can do that many of us can't abdopus147 is to take an SG checking device with your when you visit the tide pool/lagoon. Check several places and depths and shoot for what you find in its natural environment. Do note that checking soon after a rain will show a lower SG than is the norm.
 
When I checked the water quality after Hachi died the nitrates were super high, 40ppm, but I am positive this was the result from Hachi's body producing ammonia and that being converted to nitrates indirectly. I check the water quality in the morning before Hachi passed away and the nitrates were 0. I have tried changing the water up to 15%, but is it possible to over change water and dispose of too much bacteria? I know there is nitrate removes and tank additives to help with the problem, should I use those? I know that with this much nitrates it is as poisonous or even more toxic than ammonia. What should I do?
 
First, do you mean nitrites or nitrates?

Nitrates build over time, not over night, and are not considered harmful until they reach high levels. They are the end result of the ammonia->nitrite->nitrate cycle and water changes as well as stirring up the substrate while you change the water are the best way to keep them in check. One program I listened to recently suggested that high nitrates may make octopuses more suseptable to bacterial infection, particularly of the eyes. I have started larger water changes on older tanks after noting this as my bimac suffered from eye problems and the tanks are several years old without bottom substrate changes (something I like to do every 2 years to help lower buildup but have not done recently).

Nitrites are the second phase of the ammonia->nitrite->nitrate cycle and ARE, dangerous even in small detectable amounts. Nitrites will be detected if there is not enough bacteria to convert it to nitrate and suggest that your tank is not fully cycled for the animal load if they are that high after the loss of animal that did not fully decompose in the tank. This is why we recommend cycling a tank (which includes adding food over the cycle time) for a minimum of 3 months before adding a large waste producing animal and is the cause for most "new tank syndromes".

Assuming we are talking about nitrites, you are going through a cycle (or mini-cycle). I am not a fan of using chemical additives (I do add vitamins and use charcoal) for correcting water balance. I would allow thise cycle to complete before adding anything live to the tank to help build the bacteria that reduces it to nitrates unless you have something else in the tank that is reacting.
 
So sorry that you lost your octopus. Every time you keep an octopus it is a learning experience. If you don't have anything else in the tank, I would let the bacteria take care of the nitrites or nitrates.

If you want, you can do a larger water change. Most of the bacteria reside in the rock, not the water column, so it should help to bring your levels down.

I'm not sure where you are located, but please make sure you have the proper license and/or permit if you try to collect a live octopus again.
 
It is definitely nitrates. When Hachi died my tank had been running 6 months. It happened literally in one day. I checked the water in the morning, Hachi was still alive , then went to see family, then came home late at night, Hachi was dead, so I took him out. I check the water parameters the following morning and the nitrates spiked to 40ppm. Since then I have changed a total of about 20% to 25% of the water. Don't worry I have checked all fishing game laws and everything I am doing is by the book, where I am is not a preserve, but a fishing spot, all I would need is a permit. But I don't even need a permit because I am under 16.
 
abdopus147;189865 said:
I think I should release Hachi, I know it was not the best to release a captive kept octopus, but I think it is the best and only choice.
abdopus147;189904 said:
OK, but the only thing I have put in the tank that isn't from this area is live rock.

Cameron,
I read further (after I wrote the post below) and can see that you kept Hachi until he/she died, and didn't release it. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!

I've been keeping wild caught bimacs, and other legally obtained So Cal animals, for about four years. In my opinion, it is reckless and irresponsible to release anything into the wild that might have been exposed to anything that is non-native. Live rock is prized because it carries a wide variety of micro and macro organisms, and so it is particularly risky - don't rationalize. Your choice is between protecting the life of one octopus, or protecting the lives (and health) of all the local octopuses, and other wild marine animals, both current and future generations. Have compassion for all the bimacs you've never met, not just for the one you have. If you take the emotional risk to yourself out of the decision, and think about what's best for all the animals involved, isn't it clear what "the best and only choice" is?
 
I agree, you are right. After the concept of possible evasive organisms entering the ocean was explained to me, it seemed very clear the possible threat. In the end I just wanted Hachi to pass peacefully and I don't intend on releasing Nemo.
From,
Cameron
 

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