• Looking to buy a cephalopod? Check out Tomh's Cephs Forum, and this post in particular shares important info about our policies as it relates to responsible ceph-keeping.

Changed My Mind!

Why do you want to get the eggs first and then the sump? I thought the idea was to have the most stable, mature system you could construct before putting a delicate creature into it. If you add a sump, won't you be changing the biological filter? Don't you think it would be better to have your tank totally set up and then add the eggs. You are going to have your hands full just trying to feed and keep the babies alive without having to mess with leaking sumps, pumps that aren't working and skimmers that aren't skimming. Just my :twocents:
 
That is true, but I don't plan on getting them until summer, and I won't have anything else to do. I don't have an actual job, but I do have a steady flow of cash. I agree though, the more stable, the better. I will set it all up, and then wait a month or so, and then get the eggs. I want to have the eggs right when summer starts, so I can get at least 2.5 months in with them. I don't want to get them halfway through the summer, and then only have 1 month left you know? Thanks, I will get the eggs after I set up the sump.

Brock F.
 
DHyslop said:
Felix--

Good to hear the Chaeto's working out. Did they slap a biohazard sticker on yours?

Dan

Thanks, once again!
Surprisingly, they didn't. I don't think they were worried too much. You must have a lot of dealings with the PO.

The Chaeto seems to be breaking down. Not sure what's going on with it, but I'll figure it out, and have an aquatic jungle.

Brock, do you have drawings that you could share with us? Maybe we can maximize your setup.
 
Do you mean drawings of the sump I am planning? Not really, i'm still trying to grasp the whole concept...so confusing...what are baffles for? Getting rid of micro bubbles, making sure fish don't get into the intake area of the sump, what? Also, does the refugium just go right into the sump, or is this an extra container, plumbed into the whole mess?
 
hehe, it can be daunting. People primarily put the baffles in to get rid of the microbubbles. If your water has to flow down at some point it helps to separate out some of the bubbles. The 'fuge is usually just one of the chambers in the sump, don't let that confuse you.

Dan
 
DHyslop said:
Breaking down??? That doesn't sound right, might you elaborate?

Dan
I think it has some thing to do with being nipped at. It looks as though the plant is bleeding a tan substance. I moved it to the fry bucket to see if it due to being nipped at. If you lift it from it's resting place, it 'rains' a tan particle cloud. Not very fine, but dense. It doesn't appear to affect water quality. I.e., amonia, or nitrites, nitrates. I haven't checked for phos, but I doubt any are present, I used all RO/DI water. Copper, obviously measures 0, but I don't trust any copper kit completely. Calcium is up around 400, and ph is a stable 8.2. Let me knowwhat you think.

Felix.
 
That has happened to me, too. I believe the chaeto is just acting like a filter pad, trapping normal tank detritus that would otherwise go out the skimmer/filter sock.

Dan
 
So, basically, all I need is a tank, with some baffles siliconed into place? With a syphon on on end, and a powerhead with a tube, to pump the water back into the tank? Or is it more than that, and i'm missing something? Or do I need to make a separate overflow box for the inside of the sump, to make sure the syphon doesn't blow around any substrate in the refugium chamber?

Brock Fluharty
 
The refugium is usually just one side of the baffles, so you don't have to worry about stuff blowing around.

Keep in mind a siphon overflow is much more than just a siphon: it has an internal and an external box. The external box usually has a second chamber or a standpipe--this arrangement means that flow can stop without the siphon breaking. That way if you turn off the pump or there's a power failure your main tank doesn't drain onto the floor. It also means that the rate the siphon overflow is carring water to the sump will automatically match itself the flow the pump is providing, which is pretty nifty.

Here are a couple good brands of siphon overflow:

http://store.hurricanefilters.com/index.html
Lifereef Filter Systems

Stay away from the CPR brand or Marineland SOS overflows.

Also, the pump you'll use will probably have a little bit more oomph than a standard powerhead. A good powerhead might have a few hundred gph of flow in the tank, but as soon as it has to pump water uphill it loses performance pretty quick. Mag-drive brand pumps are the work-horse: inexpensive but reliable, sometimes a little noisy. Eheim makes the best pumps, but they cost about twice as much.

Dan
 
Be sure to check the performance curve for the pump that you are looking at. They will show the gph vs. the head (feet it will have to pump up).

Find your target gph rate which is the system gallons x 5-10 (everyone will tell you a different number), but cephs do best with lots of flow.

Then measure the distance from where your pump will be to the top of your water line- this is the head.

Next decide whether you want submersible or external. Submersible is much easier, but will add more heat to the tank. If you are doing tropical species-this isn't a problem because lights aren't a issue with cephs. But O.Vulgaris, S. Officianalis, etc. will have shortened life spans with higher temps- so check out the species you want.

Check out Reef Central for ideas on pumps. Everyone has a different favorite too-and they are all correct. It is just what they had the best luck using. Watch for issues like- loud, hot, unreliable, have rusty screws :wink: , etc. The most expensive parts of my system were the pump, skimmer, and live rock.
 
Also, there's more to hydraulic head than just measuring the vertical distance of the pipe: Every curve or elbow in the plumbing and the friction against the side of the pipe contributes, too. There's a calculator on ReefCentral you can use.

Dan
 

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