Caligula: My First Octopus - O. Briareus

Caligula is now eating both frozen supermarket shrimp and fiddler crabs. I experimented yesterday with Caligula by putting one of the shrimp in an open test tube. He saw it and was able to get it out. He ate two fiddler crabs tonight and has remained hidden; apparently full from the fiddlers.

Ammonia in the tank has risen slightly, but I am taking the uneaten food out as soon as he throws it out of his den. Bristle worms and shore shrimp tend to eat whatever they can before I remove the uneaten food.

Ammonia: .25
Nitrite: .00
Nitrate: assume 0 (new water)
 
I can't do a large water change until tomorrow. I know ammonia is terrible as high ammonia means lower dissolved oxygen. Do you by chance know the relationship between the two? How much will a .25 ppm ammonia level lower dissolved oxygen? Once again, I will do a water change ASAP.
 
CO2 displaces oxygen but ammonia is a direct poison (as are nitrites) so the sooner you can dilute it the better. Is deadly at low levels and can leave permenant impairment with exposure. I am surprised you are seeing ammonia in a 55 if it is well cycled as that should contain enough water volume to dilute minor decomposition and cycle before detection. You might want to look closely at your tank to be sure you don't have something on the large side dead behind a rock.
 
The tank was well cycled, but I replaced the water with RO water about a week before the octopus got here. Also, Caligula ate a TON of food his first week (15 hermits, 6 large crabs, a couple of frozen shrimp, and two clams) which caused a definite increase in bioload. I did a 10 gallon water change and I'm making water to do another 20 gallons tonight. I also cleaned up the sand a bit from his meal last night. The tank + sump holds about 70-75 gallons.I don't think there is anything rotting as I have shrimp, hermits, and a couple of rather large bristleworms for cleanup. I imagine if he only eats 2 fiddlers per night, the bacteria will be able to "catch up" and I won't have a huge spike.

Caligula looks like he is doing alright, but he has been a bit less active than nights prior. He was interested in eating tonight though he couldn't seem to figure out how to get into the test tube this time.
 
Clams can be a problem if they don't eat the whole thing and it gets under something. It seems some are worse than others and the thinner shelled ones don't seem to spoil as quickly after opening. Be sure you stir you bottom substrate when you do water changes to get all the nasty stuff up into the water column and out before it can pack and create gas pockets. Most curious with that much water that you are seeing ammonia. I am glad that the Caligula is not showing a reaction. Are you are sure your test chemical is good?

I have observed something with most of my octos that I have not seen mentioned in my limited reading. With mine, or at least with the way I work with them, they seem to learn something that I want them to do and repeat the action so that there is no mistake and then just stop for up to two weeks. Then magically, they "remember" and never forget. This is especially true of coming to a specific spot for petting (which includes an agreed upon signal for I don't want your hand in my tank any more). Interestingly they "remember" the go away signal but the come to be petted action is ignored. My most delightful experience was with Beldar when she understood the game. For two solid hours she would come to the petting spot, accept a couple of mantle rubs and then dash to the go away spot and wait for me to close the tank and sit down. Just as soon as I sat (but not before) she would return to the pet me place and wait. I was laughing so hard I almost cried in addition to getting a weeks worth or exercise. She never made me jump up and down all night again but she did "forget" for a short time and then would come every night (she was nocturnal) to the play wall for attention. Dr. Jean Boal made a comment on one of the documentaries where she was experimenting with cuttlefish, saying something to the effect that she enjoyed working with cuttles because they were more likely to do what you wanted them to than an octopus, suggesting the octos sometimes choose not to cooperate. :biggrin2:
 
I did another 20 gallon water change today, and ammonia looked to be near very near zero. I have trouble matching the colors as the color depends on the type and amount of light on the tube. I use freshly mixed RO/DI saltwater as a control when uncertain. Anyway, Caligula is eating well and seems to be healthy.

Great story! I haven't had any interaction yet that suggests Caligula will (ever) let me pet him. How did you get Beldar to let you pet her?
 
CaptFish has had similar success with Legs and hopefully, he will also detail his approach.

Here are the steps I have used successfully with a macropus, two hummelincki with somewhat less success with a single mercatoris (the other mercs did not respond). Unfortunately, my briareus did not respond as well (he did come out and interact daily but never really accepted/initiatiated much contact).

Start by determining a petting/play area. Take into consideration your own comforts (sometimes you will think your hand will drop off), and a place that is easily photographed (usually by someone else or with a remote and a tripod). On the outside of the aquarium, "pet" this area with your finger often, and try to include a regular time each day. Pick an area different from where you feed and keep the two separate.

When (and this will take awhile - several weeks in some cases, particularly with very young and/or nocturnal octos) the octo starts coming to that spot or chases your finger (hummelincki and aculeatus are pretty quick to do this) then repeat the procedure INSIDE the tank.

At the point the octo starts to come to you (do not chase - this is usually pretty fast and may even happen the first time you try it after successful outside interaction) extend your finger in an offer to "ET" touch finger tips. At some point the oct will touch your hand (be prepared to stand awhile and don't get impatient), be ready and do not jerk (or trying not to, most of us fail this test the first time). Ultimately the octo will touch and suck down on your finger then pull. Do not move your hand toward the octo and resist the pulling. He will realize he is not getting anywhere and go off and sulk. Sometimes they jet away, sometime they curl up into an insecure ball about 6" away on the glass. If he does not release you on his own or you get uncomfortable, usually a touch on the back of the arms will be enough to encourage the octopus to free your hand. No one has reported being bitten but the object is to keep you hand free of the beak area.

Watch what the octopus does when it is no longer on the glass and determine an action that is natural for him and use this as a sign to remove your hand from the tank. Maya has to go into her den. She will "pretend" to go there and watch me. I wait until she is 2/3 inside :smile:. As soon as I remove my hand she usually comes back out but I don't put my hand in again unless she comes to the front center of the glass. With Beldar, the signal was all arms off the glass and with OhToo, it was swimming to through the connecting tubes of the tank. The idea is to observe something they do when they are avoiding you and acknowledge it as an end of play. Always reinforce the action and keep your hand in the tank until it is performed (this is another time when being comfortable is helpful).

I do not use food as an incentive and do not play at feeding time.


Practice this touch contact daily, eventually two things will happen. One, the octo will stop pulling and start touching without using the suckers and two, it will swim up to your hand presenting a petting area rather than reaching out with its arms. VERY lightly pet the presented area (it will be either the mantle or just in front of the eyes). This is acceptance point usually pretty obvious and the octo will approach you differently than when it is experimenting the "ET" touch. Once you have your routine established, sometimes (maybe always but others have not noted it) in the first stages of this exercise the octo will not want to play or seem to forget. Keep offering to play in the exact same way, don't chase and in about a week you should see interaction again as if there was no break. I have had sessions with mine that have lasted over two hours. As they age, the sessions get short and near the end might only last a minute or two. I have wondered if their skin becomes a little sensitive with senescence but mine have always wanted some interaction to the very end.

Lastly JOURNAL your approach and actions/reactions as you work with your octo. Recording from memory is not very accurate so an as you go add a sentence or two to the journal, even if there is no contact is helpful in remembering timing and interactions.
 
What ^she^ said !

I am in the middle of this process, with Legs, right now. I am at the stage where she loves to explore my hand and pull on it. I have also been able to scratch her between the eyes. I did break the playing a feeding time rule, but for me if she has a fish in her mouth it's harder for her to bite me. But it has caused her to show aggression towards my hand at times, because she associates my hand with food.
 
D, would you change the title of my thread to include the name of my octopus, Caligula? There is now another thread with the same name.

New additions to tank:
4 nerite snails ~1/2"
2 damsels

Thank you so much for the in depth description. I placed my finger on the glass last night, and though he didn't come up and touch the finger, he pretended to go into his den repeatedly while checking me out. He would extend his tentacles a couple of inches up the glass before darting back into his den. Each time, almost immediately, he popped back out and bobbed his head. This behavior went on for about 30 minutes before he moved to a closer den where he watched me from seclusion. After that, he lost interest and hid while trying to catch the new damsels.

This morning, I saw him swatting at fish from his den and was able to feed him a fiddler. This is the first time I've seen him out during the day. He is usually stuck so far inside the rock that if I were to turn it upside down, all I would see is about an inch of one arm. Today, he was positioned where I usually feed him with his head out slightly - much like the first picture in this thread.
 
Hayek;144558 said:
D, would you change the title of my thread to include the name of my octopus, Caligula? There is now another thread with the same name.

Done.
 
Monty beat me to the title change :biggrin2:

Damsels are not recommended and may diminish your opportunities to interact. They are pesky fish in general (there have been exceptions) and either cower the octo or end up as dinner. Unfortunately, now that you have added them, removing them will prove difficult. One concern about agressive damsels is an attack on the octopus eyes. I don't know of a recorded incidence of this happening in our journals and it may be an old wives tale but I feel I would be remiss if I did not mention it.
 
I have seen the threads about aggressive damsels and have taken it into consideration. I put one damsel in during his first week, and he ended up eating it after a couple of days. He has been hunting the two damsels that are currently in the tank all night (without success). One of them has been bothering him though; it hangs out in his den with him. I haven't yet seen any signs of aggression from the damsel.

I do realize that getting a damsel out of any tank is a huge pain in the ass. I had to remove every piece of live rock in order to get the damsels out of what became my reef.
 
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I'm starting to wish I hadn't put the damsels in. Though Caligula hasn't been active during the day, the extra activity of the damsels almost ensures he won't be. I don't think damsels are so much a danger to octopuses as they are an annoyance.

He is still fairly active at night when the damsels are asleep.
 

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