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bought me a 75 two days ago , going to be getting it set up soon

I change 5 gallons each week on all my tanks (8 tanks from 8 - 140 gallons. I feel the small tanks need a higher % and the larger ones less but bio-load also plays a part and this has worked well for me). I do add a small amount of iodine every month to some of the tanks but not the octo tank. Do you have urchins in your parents tank? Many urchins will eat the coraline algae (the pin cushions are the most voratious and I use them to reduce the coraline in the pictured tank - sans octo as I mentioned). It does seem that a starter rock encourages rapid growth and you might buy a grapefruit sized one and place it in individual tanks for a six month culture.

I change my water out every 2 weeks and i change 5 gallons out of my 40 gallons
I am not sure what that equates to over a month. It is 12.5% every two weeks but since the water is mixed with the existing water before the next 12.5% change I would not know how to guestimate the actual monthly percentage. It would be less than the sum of 25% but how you would go about determining a fudge factor I am not sure. Using the 20% rule for heavy bio loads and 10% for a reef without fish is just a rule of thumb. Testing your water and adjusting over time is a better long term maintenance consideration.
 
I won't say it won't work well as I keep hoping someone will design something that will but our first couple of years experimenting with siphon overflows convinced us that drilling was the way to go.

The power outage statement simply means there is no pump and that it will hold siphon (not allow air into the tube) or "self start" if the siphon breaks when the return pump is turned off.
 
ok well ,

I need some suggestions for filtration

should I just go live rock, live sand, ad a proteim skimmer

or would I beneifit froma canister filter, as well,

Ive heard canister filters are good, but if you dont clean them regularly , that they build up nitrates
 
I dont know about the canister filters but i would go with LR and LS in the tank and in the back or sump a protein skimmer with a wet dry trickle filter with bio-balls. Also some kind of filter pad to get the heavy waste.:smile:
 
My first suggestion is always to reconsider drilling and go for a sump. Especially with a large tank where hanging stuff all over it would detract from the esthetics.

The tank we are building out now is very old but was innovative when it was designed. The overflow is very large and was originally used for filtration in much the same way as a separate sump (we have removed the filtration components and had it drilled). Adding this kind of overflow/sump would not be too difficult if you can esthetically cover one end (this has a cusom made plastic framing) and at least houses everything in one area and give a lot of options for filtration.
 

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yea , it woul be better, im just saying , Ive already got my tank and its not drilled

and IM not taking the chance of someone breaking my tank, so imgoing to have to go the filter or hang on route unfortunatly
 
marinerules;140296 said:
yea , it woul be better, im just saying , Ive already got my tank and its not drilled

and IM not taking the chance of someone breaking my tank, so imgoing to have to go the filter or hang on route unfortunatly

If the glass isn't tempted drilling is quite easy. The larger the tank the easier it is.

There are so many advantages to drilling a tank, and so many disadvantages to not, you should really think long and hard about it.

You could just buy hob overflow box, but drilling is still preferable. Also the larger the tank the harder it is to find decent job equipment.
 
Sorry, the reason for the pictures was to show a workable concept for an intank sump. We are not using it that way but it ran successfully for over 10 years (friend, the original owner and designer of the tank) using the compartment and for an additional 2 years as my son's. It offers an in-tank solution that can be slightly more esthetic, just not my first choice.
 
I've got the 360 on a 4' tall 36 gallon and am pleased with it. The canister is on the floor and pumps up without a problem (the downward pressure likely helps more than the power of the pump though). This is one of my tanks that can't take a sump (and if the bottom bulkhead ever leaks I'm toast). The canister takes a large quantity of carbon and water but I only have to change it out about twice a year (low bioload in the tank with 3-5 clowns and a few anemones). I only use carbon in the compartments and the water stays nicely clear.

I ran their original 360 on this tank for years with a monthly change and the larger filtering capacity of this one has been great to have.
 
kewl, thanks for posting.

Yes, I will definatly have a skimmer,

I was just looking at these canister filters because of the options they have for media ect,

I will also being doing live sand and live rock

I mean come on , any real satlwater aquarium just doesnt look oceany lol without the white sand.


is the ceramic rings a bad idea in the canister filter for the tank??
 

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