Hi all, I'm new to this forum. I'm posting b/c I just got a research position in the University of Oregon and got put in charge of two cuttlefish tanks in the Neuroscience Dept. The two systems are the same; 2x [120 drilled acrillic tanks> 10 gal glass pre-sumps with Red Sea Berlin skimmer, and Coralife UV, substrate, and HOB overflows> ~40 gal trickle filter w/ dual spinning spray bars and bio balls> little giant return pump] all in a climate controled walk in fridge.

I am trying to get these systems ready for new specimens of Sepia officinalis, but they have been empty for most of the summer aside from a few damsel fish.

I was planing to remove the substrate from the pre-sumps to help keep nitrates down, and replace the skimmers with Euro Reefs or ASM G-2s

The tanks are filled with distilled H20 that was then ran through RO as well mixed with Kent brand Salt mix.

We also have a 10 gal tank fro Zebra Dannio fish for feeders and frozen shrimp for food.

Mainly I wanted to ask if there was anything we could be doing better b/c i am planning on doing some long term color change observations and would like to keep them alive as long as posible.

Thanks,
Scott

:welcome: How big are your S. officinalis going to be when you get them? Are they already eating frozen shrimp? If not, I would have some live shrimp on standby. Fresh water fish do not have the same nutritional content as salt water fish and may not be a good long term food for your cuttles.

What type of substrate do you have and what are the current chemical parameters of the tank?

One thing you might consider is removing the HOB overflows from your in-line pre-sumps and drilling them instead. You don't need an overflow there, you could do just fine with a strainer attached to a bulkhead like many LFS have on their livestock systems.

Dan

:welcome: and please feel welcome and encouraged to talk about your research over in the ceph science forums :grad:

For tank Paramerters Nitrite 0, Nitrate~20 Salinity 32 Temp ~60
I need to bring my own test kit, all we have is the dip strips which In dont like.

I'm sure you know this, but try to get your nitrates down to 0 before adding the cuttlefish...

I just pulled the substrate (crushed coral) out of one of the pre sumps, I will see if that helps reduce the nitrates. It will be hard to get 0 w/o a good skimmer.
I was thinking if I reduced the flow through the Red sea berlin it would raise the water level, and produce skim. At least till we get new ones

Removing the crushed coral won't "remove" nitrates, but it might mean less is produced. To get rid of nitrates already in the water you'll have to do water changes or add some macroalgae.

Dan

Ok I only got cleared for 150 ea skimmer so I am going with 2 coralife super skimmers 220 gal. I know these pull a decent amount of skimm as they have them at my other job at LFS, so i am familliar with this type.

I took home some water to test on my aqiarium pham. test kit
Tank 1, Tank 2
Ammoinia 0, 0
Nitrite 0, 0
Nitrate 0, 0
pH ~7.8, 7.6
Salinity 32, 33
Temp 72
Wow it is unbeliveable the shape these tanks are in despit having tons of alge and no skimmer, but it makes sence since they are nearly empty.

Acid bath! You should bring up the pH a bit before adding any livestock.

Where do i want it ideally 8.2 or more for cuttles?
Any reef grade buffer will be ok?

8.2 is about mean surface seawater. More details:

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-09/rhf/index.php

This takes me nostalgic for my low-temp geochem class :)

Dan

Is sodium Bicarbonate good enough? I have some on hand, but on the break down it has amonium phosphate and arcenic all <.0001%.