Hey everyone....
I'm having aquarium lid issues. Anyone have any ideas on the best type of lid to use? Maybe something I'm not thinking of that's pretty simple and financially sound?? I was trying to find the reptile glass tops that used to come on the lizard lounges, however they don't make them anymore. The problem is the plastic part on the back of the standard aquarium lid that you cut holes in to fit pumps, etc. I want something with no openings and I guess I'll have to cut through the glass to have the cords, tubes, whatever to go in the tank.

What's everyone else doing?

Also, they make screen lids for reptile tanks. Any reason why I couldn't use that? Unfortunately, I'd have to remove the whole lid to get inside the tank, but it would work.

With my previous tank I methodically cut the black plastic for a PERFECT fit, tightly fitting around my protein skimmer, HOB filter, and cords, its took a while but worker perfect, with my tank I am building ATM, im using a hood to seal the entire tank, and drilling out my glass tank for a overflow, which you can easily screen over.

perspex with bricks on top!!! :lol:

J

What is perspex???
Please explain more.

Persplex is the same as plexiglass. You could use acrylic as well. Benefits include being able to drill the lid as required to fit hinges, holes for plumbing etc.

I used 1/4 Lexan. I had a local glass shop cut the lids to the exact size of the aquarium tops - then I used a Roto-Zip to remove the cut-outs for cords, filters, etc. It works extremely well. Then I cut out two squares for doors or ports and used 2 larger squares of 1/8 inch Lexan to cover these. The doors were secured with 4 plastic rotating L clips. I can try to get a picture if anyone wants. On one tank, I siliconed the lid on, but on my latest 90 gallon I just spent a little time and used duct tape. It came out better than I could have imagined.

OK, plexiglass. I wasn't aware that was the same thing. However, I seem to remember plexiglass not being completely clear. So, that poses another question about the light being used, will it show enough through the lid?
Which brings up another question I have that I had posted earlier....I have an actinic light and a white light (two strips). Do I need the actinic at all? The main reason I had it to begin with is because I have a carpet anenome. I was told that I needed that for the carpet to survive. According to the ceph care page, I only need 30 watts of white light, that's not a problem, just concerned about the other.

Docfrye, not to hijack the thread but I would appreciate pictures of the plastic L rotating clips you used. I am looking for a way to "clamp" my lid down that is not too ugly. Thanks.

Duct tape can look very good on a tank. I also used a brick, but picked a very nice one to add extra weight to the lid.

Nancy

Duct tape! These days you can get a color to match the lid so it's almost undetectable.

Detritus, I'll try and take a picture this weekend.

Thank you Doc, appreciate it.

Im also having probs with this and after three attempts of various types am now resigned to havin one made at the glazers, with...

drilled holes for air exchange (albeit gets this in sump aswell)
Access for generally feeding etc
Additional access for peroidic help of maintenance

Any suggestions of methods of fixing a glass lid over the access holes would be appreciated, bearing in mind i cant use a brick as my lights will be standing over the lid.

Cheers

If your looking for a perminate fixture, use silicone

I have a eurobraced tank with 2.5 inch bracing all the way around the top that is flush with the top glass sides etc. One method I am considering is to have the glass top in two pieces with a hinge down the centre. This way access would be either by lifting the front half or by lifting the back half. The lighting hood I am making will be wood, and weigh about 20 lbs. The two halves of the glass lid will have a urethane foam insulating strip on the side facing the tank. The light hood will likewise open from the front and back. The light hood will rest on the glass lids when not raised. This way, the lids will be held down all around the perimeter and sealed flush with the tank due to the foam strip. This is of course only possible if there are no skimmers, cords or pipes that have to enter the tank from the top. One I get the lid done, I will post a couple of pictures.

I have about 3/8 inch of lexan that I shaped to fit my tank. It's pretty heavy. I went to a glass shop and got the thickest you can get. Just get to your local glass store and see what they have.

Lexan is more tough than plexiglass/acrylic

Plexiglass usually bows from the light too.